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Housing for Independent Living Have you, a family member, or friend ever experienced the disability of a broken leg, strained back, arthritis, or stroke that left you unable to function normally in your home? Since four out of five Americans become disabled, at least temporarily, during their lives, you more than likely can answer the question in the affirmative. With a disability, routine activities--e.g., preparing meals, reaching kitchen cabinets, bathing, doing laundry, walking up or down stairs, or even getting in and out of one's car or home--are difficult or impossible because of architectural construction or design barriers. Yet, if barriers are removed or minimized, many people with a disability can live independent, productive, and fulfilling lives. Convenience, safety, and comfort are the most important aspects of well-designed housing for a disabled person. The following questions should be answered before a home is modified to accommodate an elderly or disabled person. - What are the present limitations of this person?
- To what extent can these limitations be expected to improve or further deteriorate?
- Will the person be happy in the dwelling after changes occur?
- Can space be provided for hobbies or other interests?
- Are finances available to cover alteration costs?
- What are the most urgent design needs that must be met first?
After a careful analysis of the above factors, a decision should be made to modify an existing residence or move to housing that already meets the requirements. For those interested in making life a bit easier in their present homes, the following is a guide to meet that objective. Ramps (See Figure 1)
- Ramps should have a
slope ratio of maximum 1:12, preferred 1:20; this means for every
inch of height in grade change, 12 to 20 inches of ramp length are
required.
- The ramp length (or
run) should not exceed 30 feet, without landings; nor should the
ramp rise more than 30 inches.
- The minimum width of
the ramp should be 3 feet between railings.
- Install rails on both
sides. The height of the rail should be 30 to 34 inches, with an
intermediate rail at 24 inches from the floor. The diameter of the
top rail should be between 1¼ inches to 1½ inches. The
rails should extend 1 foot beyond the end of the ramp.
- Landings are required
at the top and bottom of a ramp and should be at least as wide as
the ramp. Each landing should be at least 5 feet by 3 feet. For a
change of direction, the landing should be 5 feet by 5 feet
minimum.
- Use a non-slip surface
on the ramp. If the ramp is concrete, texture the surface. If the
ramp is wood, pebble-grained paper or sand mixed with paint
provides the necessary texture.
Entrances
(See Figure 2 and
Figure 3)
- Protection from the
weather is important.
- The door should open
inward.
- Securely mount to the
latch side of the door a small shelf 36 to 39 inches high for
packages. It should not protrude into the door space.
- Install a light switch
(illumination 36 to 39 inches from the floor) for outdoor and
indoor entry. Pressure switches are preferred over toggle
switches.
- A mechanical lock
system that disengages the deadbolt and door latch with one action
is recommended.
- There should be an
area 60 by 60 inches on the outside and the inside for room to
maneuver.
- The floor should be
slip-resistant and without throw rugs or small area
rugs.
- Entrance doors should
be a minimum of 36 inches wide, giving a clearance of 34
inches.
- The threshold should
be no higher than ¼ inch. It should be beveled so a
wheelchair can easily cross it.
- Eliminate storm doors
and screen doors.
- All doors should
provide a clearance of at least 32 inches.
- Replace doors that
impede traffic. Use a door that swings in the opposite direction
or use a pocket door. If the door is not essential, then it is
best to remove it.
- The minimum accessible
corridor should be 3 feet 6 inches wide.
- Windows should be low
enough to see out from a seated position, and the window controls
should be between 18 inches and 42 inches above the
floor.
- Wall switches, drapery
pulls, thermostats, towel racks, human-activated warning systems,
window-locking devices, telephones, and doorbells should be
accessible (40 to 48 inches above the floor) from a
wheelchair.
- One clear path of
travel (without stairs) is necessary from the front door of the
dwelling to the following: kitchen, dining area, bedroom,
bathroom, living room, and storage. Provide an alternate exit in
case of fire.
- The wheelchair user
generally prefers a bed, couch, or chair the same height as the
seat of the wheelchair. Blocks of wood can be placed under the
legs of furniture to raise objects to the desired
heights.
Kitchen
(See Figure 4)
- Countertops must be
adjustable to alternate heights of 30, 32, and 34 inches. The
limiting factor for minimum height is adequate leg room under the
sink area for a person in a wheelchair. For example, if the doors
of the base cabinet can be cut out in front of the sink, the
person in a wheelchair can roll up to the sink rather than
approaching it parallel and twisting sideways in the wheelchair.
If sink cabinet doors are removed, insulate the hot water pipes to
prevent leg burns.
- Clear space under the
countertop must be provided at the sink, the cooktop, and the mix
center. Each of these areas should be 30 to 36 inches
wide.
- Recommendations for
base cabinets include U-shaped handles for easy use; lazy Susans,
pull-out trays, or storage shelves and pot racks; for various food
wraps, holders attached inside the cabinet doors; 2 feet of
heat-resistant countertop next to the range to allow user to slide
hot utensils without the danger of trying to lift them. At least
one kitchen sink bowl should be 5-6½ inches deep with a drain
at the rear. Insulate the water supply, waste pipes, and underside
of sink to protect the user from burns.
- The toe space is 10
inches high and 8 inches deep under the cabinet, for clearance of
wheelchair footrests.
- Locate all controls
for easy access from a seated position.
- Adjust or lower wall
cabinets for easy accessibility. Lower the bottom shelf of the
wall cabinet to a maximum of 48 inches above the floor. If it is
impossible to move the cabinet, install shelves under the cabinet.
Under-the-cabinet small appliances are popular, but make sure you
can comfortably reach and use them.
Conveniences to help adapt
a kitchen include these:
- Clear plastic shelves
so a person can see its contents;
- Pegboard to store
equipment at an accessible level;
- A rolling cart or
cutting block table with wheels to use as a work
table;
- A lazy Susan in the
refrigerator to make retrieval of items in the back
easier;
- An adjustable mirror
attached to the wall behind the cooktop to facilitate easy
viewing. Clear, glass cookware is also helpful.
- Have pull-out boards
at a variety of heights.
- All areas of the
kitchen should be accessible by a wheelchair to frontal and
parallel approaches. This means an access area no less than 48
inches.
Bathrooms
(See Figure 5)
- The door to the
bathroom should not swing into the bathroom.
- View all towel bars,
grab bars, and sink edges as support members that support 250
pounds of stress at every point. Locate grab bars at commode tub,
and shower, according to building code height and size
specifications. Never install grab bars at an angle.
- There must be a clear
space inside the bathroom of at least 60 by 60 inches on the
access route. All facilities should be approachable from that
space and fully accessible.
- There should be 32
inches clear space on one side of the commode and 42 inches clear
space in front.
- Floors should be of a
slip-resistant material, even when wet.
- If a shower is used,
it should be 60 inches by 40 inches with a built-in seat 16-18
inches high, 16 inches wide, and 16 inches deep. The shower should
have a nonslip bottom, no entry curb, and curtains instead of a
door.
- If there is a bathtub,
it should be low (16-20 inches) with a flat, slip-resistant bottom
and water controls 18 inches above the tub rim.
- The toilet should be
15 to 18 inches from the floor. Elevated toilet seats may be
purchased. Portable and permanent toilet seat attachments are
available, some with adjustable seat heights. Some are available
with arms and guard rails.
- The basin should be 32½
inches high and open underneath. An adjustable or tilted mirror
over the basin helps.
- Single handle water
spigots at the tub, shower, and basin are easiest to control. A
water thermostat set at 120 °F maximum is needed to control
all outlets where body contact is possible.
- An adjustable shower
head, between 42 and 72 inches above the floor is available, with
controls that require only one effort to adjust water and
temperature (a single-control faucet); spray unit at least 60
inches long is included for use as fixed or hand-held
shower.
- The bottom of the
bathroom mirror should be no higher than 40 inches above the
floor, with the top at 74 inches. A full length mirror provides a
view for any user.
Bedroom
(See Figure 6)
- Minimum size preferred
is 11 feet by 12 feet.
- Bed and wheelchair
need to be about the same height.
- Attach grab bars to
the wall, close to the bed.
- Dressers should be
open underneath.
- Install a large, low
mirror or a door mirror.
Modifying the home for a
disabled resident means more than making design changes. Training
must be an integral part of the modification. An individual in a
wheelchair needs to be shown the best way to maneuver in the bathroom
or how to open the front door with an armful of groceries.
Renovating a home is
expensive and may even be prohibitive--but a few careful
modifications can make a difference in converting what was once an
obstacle course for a disabled person into a livable
environment.
Figure
1

Figure
2

Figure
3

Figure
4

Figure
5

Figure
6

By Dr.
Frances Graham, Extension Housing Specialist
Mississippi State University
does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, national
origin, sex, age, disability, or veteran status.
Publication
1825
Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with
U.S. Department of Agriculture.
Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30,
1914. Ronald A. Brown,
Director
Copyright by Mississippi State University. All rights reserved.
This document may be copied and distributed for nonprofit educational purposes provided that credit is given to the Mississippi State University Extension Service.
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