Serger Basics: Construction Techniques

Seams

Seams are basic to clothing construction. Two major ways to use a serger in seam construction are as a seam finish or as a seam.

Serging as a seam finish only--In some garments, it is desirable to maintain the 5/8-inch seam allowance. After cutting the garment, serge all edges that require a seam finish. When serging the fabric edges, allow the knives only to skim the edge of the fabric and not cut off part of the seam allowance. Once all raw edges have been serged, construct the garment using a conventional sewing machine.

Serging a seam--The serger sews the seam, cuts away the seam allowance, and finishes the edges all in one step. No straight stitching on a conventional machine is necessary.

It is essential that you do pattern fitting ahead of time because once the serger cuts away the seam allowance, there is no room for letting out.

You can use sergers in several ways in combination with straight stitching on a conventional machine.

For example, some loosely woven fabrics or garments that will receive hard wear should be constructed using conventional methods. After stitching each seam, press and serge the two seam allowances together, leaving a 1/4- or 3/8-inch seam allowance.

Another example is in the construction of French seams. With a serger you can eliminate the trimming step in the conventional 3-step process. With wrong sides together, serge a 1/4-inch seam. Turn the fabric right sides together, encasing the first seam. Press. Straight stitch 3/8 inch from the edge on conventional machine.

Securing Seam Ends

You should secure any serged seam that is not crossed by another seam. Loose loops at the beginning or end of a seam can come undone and the seam can ravel out. Sergers can't backstitch.

One method of securing a seam requires at least a 2-inch chain. Tie a knot close to the seam and put a dab of seam sealant on the knot. After it dries, cut off the chain below the knot.

Another method for securing seams requires using the serger. At the beginning of a seam, when the needle has made one to two stitches into the edge of the fabric (Figure 1), lift the presser foot and swing the chain around to the front (Figure 2). Place the chain on the seam allowance. Lower presser foot and stitch over chain.(Figure 3) At the end of the seam, stop sewing when the needle is one stitch off the fabric. Gently pull stitches off stitch fingers. Raise the presser foot and flip the fabric (Figure 4), aligning the fabric so the first stitch will coincide with the previous stitches. Lower the presser foot and stitch over the previous stitches for about one inch, being careful not to cut the stitches already sewn (Figure 5). Chain off the fabric edge and trim.

Curves

You can serge around inside and outside curves easily if you guide the fabric correctly. Watch the seam allowance where the knife is cutting rather than at the needle as with a conventional machine.

Guide the fabric into the machine with fingertips in front of the presser foot. Do not attempt to guide the fabric at the side or behind the presser foot when sewing curves.

Corners

Turning inside corners--Begin stitching, stopping at least one inch before reaching the corner. Straighten the corner. There will be a small tuck or fold of fabric at the corner. Continue stitching in a straight line. Fabric should lie flat at corner when you finish stitching.

Turning outside corners--To turn right-angle outside corners, stitch slowly up to the corner. As the first stitch is being taken off the fabric (Figure 6), stop (with needle in up position). Lift the presser foot and gently pull stitches off stitch fingers (Figure 7). Pivot fabric so that the next edge is touching the knife blade (Figure 8). Lower presser foot and continue stitching (Figure 9).

An easier method for turning outside corners is to run off the fabric edge with the serger. On each new edge, stitch over previous stitching. At every corner, chain off, tie a knot, dab the knot with seam sealant, and cut off chain.

Regardless of which method you use, it is necessary to practice, practice, practice!

Hems

There are many ways to use a serger in the hemming process. The following ways are popular:

• No-hem--Serge the bottom edge of tuck-in blouses with a medium width and length stitch. This makes a flat hem for a smooth hipline.
• Shirt hem--Serge the bottom edge with a medium width and length stitch. Turn serging to wrong side and topstitch with conventional sewing machine one-fourth inch from edge.
• Full-skirt hem--Serge the lower edge with a medium width and length stitch. Turn serging to wrong side and edge stitch with conventional sewing machine.
• Conventional plus hem--Mark the hemline of the hem allowance. Finish the raw edge of the hem with serger. Press hem up on hemline. Hem by hand. For wider and fuller turned-up hems, ease the edge and finish it in one step by tightening the needle-thread tension.
• Rolled hem--This is a great hem to use on lingerie, ruffles, scarves, napkins, tablecloths, and many other things. It gives a professional look to the finished edges. Check your machine manual for special adjustments and/or attachments needed.

Elastic

Application of elastic is easy with a serger. It allows for close duplication of ready-to-wear garments, especially lingerie and swimwear.

Three basic methods for applying elastic are two- thread application, three-thread application, and concealed application.

Two-Thread Application (Flatlocking)

This method requires a serger that can do a two-thread or three-thread flatlock stitch.

With right sides together, place elastic next to the edge of the fabric. Serge from elastic side, stretching the elastic to fit the fabric. Be careful not to cut the elastic. On most machines, the knife can be moved out of the way to avoid cutting by mistake. Once the elastic has been serged, gently pull the elastic and fabric flat (this causes the seam to lay flat). There will be a ladder-like stitch on the right side.

Three-Thread Application

This application is more durable than flatlocking but is slightly bulkier. Adjust stitch length so stitches are not too close together. Place the elastic on top of the fabric (right sides together), serge the edges together, stretching the elastic while stitching. Be careful not to cut the elastic with the knives. Turn the elastic up; push seam allowance toward the garment.

Concealed Application

This method for applying elastic is especially suited for swimwear and for those who do not like the feel of elastic against their skin.

Turn back the casing to desired width. Fold the casing back against the right side of the garment, creating a soft fold about one-fourth inch from the top edge of the casing on the wrong side of the garment. Place the elastic inside the casing.

Lower the presser foot and stitch so that the overlock stitches fall on the soft fold, making sure not to catch the edge of the elastic at the same time. Be careful not to cut the soft fold.

Ribbing

The procedure for attaching ribbing with a serger is basically the same as attaching it with a conventional sewing machine. To attach ribbing to fabric, divide the circle of ribbing and the garment edge into fours and mark the divisions with a water-soluble marking pen. With right sides together, serge, stretching the ribbing in front of the needle to meet the marks.

Gathering

To gather with a serger, put the fabric in place and lay cord (buttonhole twist, crochet thread, or pearl cotton) on top of the fabric between the needle and the looper. Using a short, narrow stitch to hold the gathering cord in place, begin serging over the cord (being sure that the stitch encloses the cord but doesn't catch it). When finished serging, pull on the cording to create gathers.

Lace

Three basic methods for applying lace with a serger are flatlock application, overlapped application, and serged application.

Flatlock Application

This is a flat seamless lace application. Use the same method as described for flatlocking elastic (except do not stretch lace while stitching).

Overlapped Application

Serge the edge of the fabric, then lap the lace one-fourth inch over the edge of the right side of the garment. Using a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag on a conventional machine, edge stitch the lace in place.

Overlocked Application

Place the edge of the lace near the edge of the fabric with right sides together. Serge together with a short, narrow stitch. Press seam allowance toward fabric.

Decorative Serging

Creativity with a serger is limitless and can be achieved by changing the upper and/or lower looper threads. You can use heavier threads--such as pearl cotton; polyester, silk, or rayon topstitching thread; cotton or acrylic crochet thread; and metallic thread--in place of regular thread for a different decorative effect. In addition, you can use lightweight yarn and ribbon (1/16 inch - 1/8 inch).

The key to successful decorative serging is to make test samples and to practice on fabric scraps before stitching on your project.

Publication 1606
Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. Ronald A. Brown, Director

Copyright by Mississippi State University. All rights reserved.

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