Basic Clothing Construction -- Sew Easy: Pattern And Fabric Selection

Making clothes that you enjoy wearing depends largely on choosing patterns and fabrics that are right for you, your lifestyle, your body size and type, and your fashion sense. Sewing requires money, time, and effort, so you want to like and wear what you have made. To get this result, you must make some advance preparations and decision.

Before You Shop

1. Study fashion magazines and newspaper ads to identify the outstanding colors and styles for the coming season. Then pick out the ones you like that will look good on you.
2. Go to ready-to-wear stores and study the styles and fabrics. Notice the weight, texture, color, and overall design of the fabrics used. Try on garments even if you cannot afford to buy them to see which styles and colors flatter your figure and face. Don't make garments that aren't flattering to you regardless of how fashionable they are.
3. Study the clothes in your closet. Decide what you need for the coming season. For economy and convenience, plan your new purchases so they will coordinate with clothes you already have.

Take Your Measurements

Patterns are designed for a variety of figure types. The pattern type you select should be determined by your height, stage of figure development, and your back waist length measurement. The pattern size you select within a pattern type will be determined by your body measurements.

Accurate measurements are essential for finding the pattern size best suited for you. Take your measurements and fill out the body measurement chart. Use this chart when selecting a pattern. These are the measurements you should compare with the measurements on the charts in the pattern catalogs before you decide what type and size pattern to buy.

Choose your size by bust measurement for dresses, blouses, suits, or coats. If all your measurements correspond to those listed on the pattern, you will have no trouble in choosing your size. However, if you vary from the measurement charts, choose the size that will fit best through the blouse or bodice part. It is much easier to alter a skirt than a bodice.

If your bust measurement falls between two sizes, choose the larger or smaller size according to your other measurements. If your measurements fall between pattern sizes and if your bone structure is small (you are narrow in the shoulders and across the back), choose the smaller pattern size. If your figure is proportionately fuller through the bust than all other parts of the body, you will probably need a pattern one size smaller than the bust measurement.

For skirt, slacks, or pants, buy the pattern according to your waist measurement. If your hip measurement is larger than the pattern, buy according to your hip measurement and adjust the pattern at the waistline.

Even though pattern companies use the same standard measurements, each company interprets them a little differently. You will find more ease in some patterns than in others. The shapes of neckline, shoulders, sleeves, and other design lines will vary in size and shape. Because of this, you may find one pattern brand fits your figure a little better than others.

The measurement charts will help you find your figure type and pattern size. Have someone else measure you. Measurements should be taken over a slip and a foundation garment.

• Choose the figure type with height and body build nearest to your own.
• Age is not a factor in choosing your figure type.
• Find your figure type before you choose a pattern size.
• Choose your pattern size according to your bust measurement.

The following body measurement chart (established by the Pattern Fashion Industry) will guide you in finding your figure type and pattern size.

When You Shop

Go directly to the pattern catalog section when you enter the fabric store. Don't get side-tracked by looking at fabric before you have a pattern in hand.

When looking for a pattern, consider these time-saving characteristics:

• Few seams
• Straight lines with little or no fitting required
• Few pattern pieces (four to six at most)
• No extra detail, such as tucks or topstitching
• Little or no handsewing
• Single closures
• Symmetrical sides (left and right sides cut by the same pattern piece at the same time)

Look for fabric after you have chosen your pattern. Read the back of your pattern envelope for a list of suggested fabrics. Are any fabric restrictions given? For example, some say, "For Knits Only." Look at the colors and characteristics of the fabrics illustrated on the front of the pattern envelope. The envelope will also indicate whether the pattern is appropriate for plaids, diagonal stripes, and border prints.

If your time or experience is limited, select fabrics that are simple to sew such as non-slippery, non-ravelly, plain weaves, solid colors, or small designs, without nap or one-way design, and with little or no surface finish.

Check the fabric quality for these characteristics:

Grain. Grain is very important in fabric. Woven fabrics are "on-grain," if the lengthwise and crosswise yarns are at right angles. Knit fabrics are "on-grain," if the lengthwise rows of loops (wales) in the knit are straight. Fabrics must be "on-grain" so the clothes you make will hang straight and look right.

Wrinkle or crease resistant. Crush a corner of the fabric and hold it tightly for several seconds. Then look for wrinkles. Fabrics that wrinkle easily will require extra care.

Colorfastness. Rub the fabric against your skin or a light colored fabric. Check to see if color rubbed off.

Flaws in construction and dyeing. As fabric is unrolled from the bolt, look closely for obvious flaws in construction. Also, check for fading. Sometimes fading will occur along the fold or where the fabric has been exposed to sunlight.

Odor. Although chemical finishing odors usually are removed by the first laundering, it is wise to avoid fabrics with strong odors.

Care requirements. Read the information on the end of the fabric bolt. It should tell you what fiber the fabric is made from, the width of the fabric, the price, if the fabric will shrink, if there are special finishes, and how to care for it.

Add the total cost of the pattern, notions, and fabric needed to make the garment you are considering. If the total amount is more than your budget permits, you may need to look for less expensive materials or a pattern that uses less fabric.

Publication 1445
Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. Ronald A. Brown, Director