Speed Tailoring Techniques: Preparing Fabrics & Patterns

Fabrics

Preshrink all fabrics and tapes going into the coat or jacket according to the cleaning method desired for the garment.

Washable - Wash and dry outer fabric and lining as designated on the care label.

Preshrink woven fusibles by folding them into a square and setting them in a basin of lukewarm water for 30 minutes. Pat out excess wear and hang over a rod to dry.

You can preshrink twill tape and seam tape by bending the card and putting it in hot water for 30 minutes. Stand on edge to dry. NOTE: You must leave card bent, or tape won't be able to shrink.

Dry Cleanable - Take outer fabric to a professional dry cleaner and have him preshrink it for you. This heavy steaming that cannot be done with an ordinary steam iron removes potential shrinkage caused by pressing. Preshrink tapes as noted above. Lining and fusible interfacings of dry cleanable garments should be preshrunk if bolt does not indicate fabric is preshrunk. Preshrink as indicated above, if needed.

Pattern

Check fit of the pattern.

• Trim excess tissue and press pattern with dry iron.
• Pin in darts and seams.
• Clip seam allowance of armhole and neckline of tissue so it will lie flat.
• Pin on undercollar; match markings.
• Pin sleeves seam together.
• Try on front, back, and undercollar over the same type clothes to be worn under the finished jacket.

Check:

• Shoulder seam.
• Shoulder width 6 mm (¼") to 1.2 cm (½") beyond pivot bone in shoulder.
• Grain line - at right angles to the floor.
• Side seams to see if they hang straight.
• All darts to see if they point to the fullest part of a body curve and taper off 2.5 cm (1") from the point of the curves.

  

   

• Armhole to see if it fits smoothly. If it gaps in front, the bust is fuller than pattern. If armhole gaps in back, it means shoulder blade is prominent or back is rounded.
• Waist - Reshape if necessary.
• Length - Hemline can be slightly above or below hip line. Below hip line may be more flattering.
• Buttonhole and pocket locations.
• Sleeve - Try on sleeve pattern. Pin large dot at top of sleeve to shoulder and pin underarm seam in place. Check width by pinching width at upper arm; 5 cm (2") ease is needed in the upper sleeve. Hem of jacket sleeve should go to middle of wrist bone. Coat sleeve should be 1.2 cm (½")longer.
• Mark roll line on lapel and undercollar while trying on pattern. End the lapel roll line slightly above the first buttonhole.

If unsure about fit, it is recommended the front, back, undercollar, and sleeves be made up in muslin or inexpensive fabric to determine correct alterations.

If alterations are required, be sure to make the same alterations to all adjoining pieces, such as collars and facings.

Cutting & Marking

Check pattern before cutting. Follow the pattern layout; however, the following tips are suggested if they are not included in your pattern instructions:

• Cut undercollar on bias and have a center back seam for a collar that rolls smoothly. A one-piece, all-bias collar has lengthwise grain in opposite directions at collar points, and left and right may end up looking different.
• To correct: Cut undercollar pattern in half and add a center back seam allowance.

  

   

Mark outer fabric. When outer fabric is underlined or interfaced, you need only to transfer marking to the underlining or interfacing. Using chalk or a marking pen, do the following:

• Mark wrong side of fabric if both sides of fabric look alike.
• Mark all matching points.
• Mark hemline in the seam allowance of jacket and sleeve.
• Mark pocket locations and button holes.
• After removing pattern, baste markings to transfer marking to the outside of fabric.
• Mark wrong side of fabric as indicated in pattern, if pattern has a vent in back and/or sleeve.

Fusible Interfacing

There are two approaches to take when using a fusible interfacing for tailoring.

Method I

The fusible interfacing is applied only to the front facing and the lapel of the jacket. This method is used for an unlined jacket, but you can use it in a lined jacket. Method I gives a soft look to the total garment, and it retains the softness of a soft fabric.

Use the front facing pattern to cut the fusible interfacing. (Do not use the pattern piece marked front interfacing.) Cut the facing only to the hemline. This will eliminate a double thickness of interfacing in the hem. You can eliminate 1.5 cm (5/8") from the inside edge, since this will eventually be trimmed away.

Lapels for spot stabilization - To give extra support and prevent the lapel point from curling, cut interfacing from jacket front lapel so the lower edge will extend 2.5 cm (1") beyond the roll line marking, tapering to roll line mark as it reaches the neckline. Mark the roll line on the stabilizer. Place the left and right sides on a table with the smooth side (uncoated side) facing up. Line a ruler up with the roll line mark at the neckline and the roll line mark 2.5 cm (1") above the bottom of the stablilzer. Draw the roll line with chalk or a marking pen.

Underlining (when jacket is lined) - Underline an outer fabric that is lightweight or loosely woven to give it extra body.

You can use a lightweight fusible knit to underline all garment sections. Cut fusible knit for each garment section, including the hem allowance, except for the facing and undercollar. It is not necessary to underline the undercollar or the facing, since these will be interfaced.

Mark the darts and all matching points clearly on the smooth side (uncoated side) of the underlining. If you do not use an underlining, mark all darts and matching points on the underside of the outer fabric.

Pockets - If a pocket will receive hard wear, it is advisable to reinforce the underside of the outer fabric in the pocket area. Use a non-fusible interfacing. Cut a piece of interfacing 5 cm (2") larger than the pocket markings on the jacket so the interfacing is caught in the final stitching.

Do not use a fusible interfacing to reinforce the pocket area, since this may show a ridge on the outside of the garment.

Method II

The fusible interfacing is applied to the jacket front section and is cut so that is extends to the seam. This is necessary to avoid a ridge's showing down the front of the garment. Method II requires the garment to be lined. This method gives a firm, tailored appearance to the garment.

Cut interfacing from the pattern of the front section, only to the hemline. Eliminate a double thickness of the interfacing at the hem.

This method requires spot stabilization on the lapel. Cut a section 2 cm (¾") from lapel edge and 3 mm (1/8") from the roll line. This support will be applied on top of the fusible interfacing on the front section. It will not be included in the seam allowance of the lapel.

Darts - Mark stitching lines of darts on smooth side (uncoated side) of interfacing. To eliminate bulk in the dart area, cut out the dart allowance of the fusible interfacing.

Marking - Transfer to the smooth side (uncoated side) of the interfacing all joining points, pocket markings, buttonholes. Mark lapel roll lines on the interfacing by laying left and front pieces on a table facing each other with smooth side (uncoated side) of interfacing facing up. Place a ruler at the neckline where the roll is to start and then at the base of the roll line (approximately 2.5 cm [1"]) above the first buttonhole. Draw a line with chalk or marking pencil between these two points.

Pockets - Since the entire jacket front section is fused with interfacing, additional reinforcement is not needed unless a pocket extends beyond the seam of the front section. Then reinforce only the area that does not have the fused interfacing with non-fusible interfacing.

Methods I and II

Undercollar - The undercollar interfacing should have a center back seam and be cut on the bias from the same interfacing used for the jacket front or facing.

Mark the roll line on the smooth side (uncoated side) of each section.

Collar Stand - Additional interfacing is needed to create a roll and give support to the collar stand. Cut one piece of interfacing to cover the area. It should stop 3 mm (1/8") from the roll line and the neck stitching line. This slight layering helps prevent a ridge from forming at neckline seam.

This piece will be fused after the center back seam is sewn, pressed, stitched, and trimmed.

Uppercollar - Interfacing the uppercollar is optional. A lightweight or loosely woven fabric should be underlined or interfaced. Test a sample of both interfacings on a scrap of outer fabric to determine the amount of body the fabric may need.

Back - Use a back reinforcement for support across the shoulders. If a pattern piece is not included, make one as follows: Fold the knit interfacing on the lengthwise grain. Place the seam line of the back pattern piece on the lengthwise grain. Pin in place. Cut around neck, shoulder, and armhole edges. Remove pattern; at center back on the fabric, measure and mark 19.1 cm (7½") down from neck edge. Place a mark at underarm seam 5.1 cm (2") below the armhole. Draw curved line joining center back to underarm seams; cut out.

Hem - Cut bias strips for the hem interfacing 6 mm (¼") less than the width allowed for the hem in the jacket and the sleeves.

Method I - Do not cut hem interfacing for jacket facing.

Method II - Do not cut hem interfacing for jacket front.

Lining - Cut according to the pattern or see MSU-ES Information Sheet 1243, "Lining a Jacket or Coat."

References

Custom and Fusible Tailoring, Coats and Clark, Inc., Consumer and Educational Affairs Department, Stamford, Conn., 06902.

Palmer and Pletsch, Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring. 1977. Published by Palmer/Pletsch Associate, Portland, OR 97207.

Other "Speed Tailoring Techniques" Extension publications include these titles:
Pub. 1402 -- Standing Welt Pocket
Pub. 1404 -- Fusing Interfacing
Pub. 1406 -- Sleeves
Pub. 1407 -- Jacket Front and Back
I.S. 1242 -- Shoulder Shapers
I.S. 1243 -- Lining a Jacket or Coat
I.S. 1249 -- Patterns, Fabric, and Notions

"Pressing Accessories" instructions include these Extension publications:
Pub. 1383 -- Point Presser and Pounding Block
I.S. 1237 -- Pressing Cloths and Hem Guide
I.S. 1239 -- Pressing Ham and Sleeve and Seam Roll
I.S. 1240 -- Pressing Mitt

Mississippi State University does not discriminate on grounds of race, color, religion, national origin, sex, age, disability, or veteran status.

Publication 1405
Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. Ronald A. Brown, Director