4-H Clothing Project Reference Manual

This publication is a reference for all levels of the 4-H Clothing Project. You can use it along with other clothing books and any additional sewing information you find. Keep this manual and other materials in a loose-leaf notebook for easy accessibility. Objectives for the 4-H Clothing Project are listed in the project book for each level; this manual will help you accomplish those objectives.

Some parts of this guide may seem too easy after you have gained some experience in your 4-H Clothing Project, but you must start with the basics and build on those skills and knowledge.

When you have questions concerning any part of your clothing activities, ask your teen leader, volunteer leader, or Extension agent. In clothing, there are many "right" answers to a problem. There may be many acceptable ways of sewing some parts of a garment, so don't think there is only one way it can be done. You are to be congratulated for choosing clothing as a 4-H project. It is a wonderful way to show your creativity, while saving money. Sewing can be exciting and rewarding!

Equip Your Sewing Box

Successful construction projects require some essential tools to make the steps easier and the results superior. You will need tools for marking, measuring, cutting, sewing, and pressing. Your tool inventory will probably grow as you learn and use new skills. Collect good tools and keep them in a sturdy box or basket. You can paint or cover a cardboard box, use a commercial sewing box, or use an attractive basket or other container. Use small boxes inside your larger box to keep tools organized. Basic tools for your sewing box include the following:

Marking Tools

Pattern markings provide guides for assembling and sewing the project. These markings must be transferred to your fabric (most to the wrong sides). They should be easy to see and easy to remove. Several marking materials are available, and no one marking tool works on all fabrics. Test new marking materials on a scrap, and find the best removal technique before using the marker on your fabric.

A tracing wheel comes in two types -- serrated and smooth edge. The serrated edge is used on most fabrics, but the smooth edge protects delicate, smooth fabrics (for example, chiffon and silk).

Tracing paper has a special carbon on one side that transfers the wheel lines to the fabric.

Chalk pencils, triangles, and wheels are available in several colors and provide quick markings onto fabric. Some soap slivers, such as Ivory, can also be used.

Marking pencils are also designed for providing quick markings. Some pencil markings, usually blue, can be removed with water, and others, usually purple, have markings that will disappear in time (12 to 24 hours). Do not use lead pencils or ballpoint pens, because their marks are difficult or impossible to remove. Pressing may cause marks to set permanently, so remove tracing marks before pressing.

Measuring Tools

Accurate measurements are important in clothing construction. If your measurements are not accurate, your finished project will not look and fit as it should.

A tape measure is used for larger measurements, such as fabric grain line, body measurements, and determining pattern size. Choose a 60-inch (150 cm) tape made of durable reinforced fiberglass that will not stretch and is heat-resistant.

Pencil and paper are used for writing down important notes and numbers.

A 6-inch ruler or hem gauge is used for smaller measuring tasks such as hems, cuffs, and casings. A sliding pointer on a gauge makes it easy to get even measurements.

A see-through ruler lets you see what you measure or mark. This ruler is used to check fabric grain line and to mark buttonholes, tucks, pleats, and similar information.

Cutting Tools

Select quality cutting tools and keep them at their best with periodic sharpening by professionals. Dull scissors and shears can slow down the cutting process and make your hands and wrist tire quickly.

Scissors have both handles the same size, have blades that are 6 inches or less in length, and are used for clipping, trimming, and other handwork and precision cutting.

Bent-handle shears are best for cutting out fabric and pattern, because the lower blade lets the material stay flat on the cutting surface. Although blade lengths up to 12 inches are available, 7-inch to 8-inch blades are the most popular sizes. Left-hand models also are available.

A seam ripper takes out the "oops" by quickly ripping seams, opening buttonholes, and removing stitches, as needed. Use carefully to avoid piercing the fabric.

Other cutting tools include pinking shears, scalloping shears, rotary cutters, and thread clippers.

Sewing Tools

Sewing tools are those used actually to attach fabric pieces together toward completing the sewing project.

Hand needles are best selected in assorted sizes (7 to 9 sharps and crewels) for a wider variety of sewing tasks. Sharp needles are medium length and have round eyes. Crewel needles are similar in length and are easier to thread due to longer eyes.

Machine needles in assorted sizes are the best choices. Size 9 is best for sheer and lightweight, tightly constructed fabrics. Sizes 11 to 14 are used most for general sewing and medium-weight fabrics. Regular point needles are used for most fabrics, and ballpoint needles are best for knit fabrics, because they separate rather than puncture the fiber.

A thimble provides protection from the pointed needle edge while sewing by hand. It comes in sizes 6 (small) to 12 (large) for snug fit on fingers.

Pins are available in a variety of lengths, which indicate size (based on sixteenths of an inch). For example, a size 8 pin is 8/16 (1/2) of an inch long. Most pins are .5 mm to .6 mm thick. Pins with plastic heads are easier for small hands to handle.

Pin cushions are safe places to store needles before and after they are removed from the fabric. (NEVER put pins of any sort in your mouth.) Some pin cushions have an emery pack for cleaning and sharpening pins and needles, and some cushions can fit on your wrist for handy use. Magnetic pin holders are alternatives that provide quick cleanup for spilled pins and needles.

Extra bobbins will save you time, because you won't have to keep winding and unwinding threads for your projects.

A needle threader can make threading the needle easier. Insert the threader through the eye of the needle, pushing thread through the eye of the threader and pulling the threader back through the needle.

Thread in a medium thickness (size 50) can be used for machine and hand sewing. Cotton-covered polyester is among the most popular threads and offers a variety of colors and spool sizes. (Thread looks slightly darker on the spool than when it is sewn.)

Pressing Tools

Pressing as you sew is an important procedure you should not neglect. It may seem unnecessary, but pressing at each stage can be the secret to a perfectly sewn garment. Save time by pressing in batches as much as possible. Then press all newly stitched pieces at one time.

Your press cloth is a piece of fabric placed between the iron and your fabric when pressing. It prevents damaging the fabric's surface. Use a damp press cloth for fusing interfacing. A see-through press cloth is suitable for lightweight fabrics and for pressing creases in other fabrics. Wool, canvas, and cotton press cloths are used for most fabrics. You may make your own from sheets and leftover fabrics. Launder regularly.

A seam roll helps to prevent the seam from making an imprint.

A point turner is used to push out gently points of collars, lapels, and other hard to reach places.

Larger pressing equipment, not a part of the sewing box, includes the steam/dry iron and the ironing board.

Other sewing gadgets are available; you may add these later, as you feel they are needed. The tools you add depend on the type of sewing you do most and the fabrics you use.

Hand Sewing

How To Thread a Needle

Although most of the sewing on a project is done by machine, some sewing techniques are best done by hand. These include basting, decorative stitching, tacking, and hemming. Following are some tips for successful hand sewing:

Select sharps or crewel eye needles for your hand sewing.

1. Cut your thread about 20 inches long with scissors; do not break or bite it. Cut it at an angle. This will make the thread sharper and easier to insert in the needle eye.
2. Hold the needle in your left hand and the thread in your right hand. If you brace one hand against the other, it will help you keep the needle steady. If you are left handed, reverse the procedure.
3. Put the end of the thread that was cut (from a spool) into the needle. Make a knot in the same end.

How To Make a Knot

To make a knot:

1. Hold the thread between the first finger and the thumb of your right hand. Hold the end of the thread that was cut from the spool between the first finger and the left hand.
2. Wrap the thread around the first finger of the left hand with the right hand. Cross the end of the thread.
3. Reverse the procedure if you're left handed.
4. Tightly roll the thread between the first finger and thumb.
5. Roll the thread until the loop is pushed off the end of the first finger. To do this, push forward with the thumb.
6. Pull this loop into a knot with your thumb and middle finger. Pull the knot down to the end of the thread.

How To Use Your Thimble

The thimble is worn on the middle finger of the hand you use for sewing.

1. Hold the needle between your thumb and the first finger. Let the end of the needle rest against the end or side of the thimble.
2. Hold the material in your left hand between your thumb and other fingers. Stick the needle into the material. Push the needle through with the thumb and forefinger.
3. Practice taking stitches in your material until you can make them smooth and even. Then try taking three or four stitches at one time with your needle.

Common Types of Hand Stitches

Running stitch is used for hand basting. It temporarily holds two or more layers of fabric together for fitting or stitching. Beginning sewers find it helpful to hand baste first, then move on to pin and machine basting.

Backstitch is the strongest of hand stitches. Use it in hard-to-reach areas by making a stitch; bring up the needle half a stitch length behind and in front of previous stitch. Stitches on the underside appear twice as long as those on the upper side. It has the appearance of machine stitches on top with overlapping longer stitches on the bottom. Prick stitch is a variation of the backstitch with tiny stitches on the right side. It is used for decorative topstitching or inserting a zipper by hand.

Hemming stitch is usually applied to a hem finished with seam binding. Take one or two threads of the garment, then bring needle through the edge of the seam binding. Stitches may be slightly slanted on the inside. Stitches should not show from the right side, not appear drawn, or pulled too tight.

Catch stitch is flexible and suitable for nonravelly, stretchy fabrics. It also permits pressing without creating a ridge on the front side. Turn top edge of hem back. Working between the hem and the garment (approximately ¼ inch from hem edge), take a small stitch in the hem. Then move diagonally to the right to take next stitch from garment. Alternate stitches in this zigzag fashion.

Clothing Repairs

Repairing clothes pays off in better appearance and savings for the whole family. Now, as always, the stitch-in-time means fewer clothing replacements and more money for other needs. The sewing machine and some mending aids save time and energy, but handwork is also an important part of repairing clothes.

Repair a Loose Hem

What looks more neglected than a sagging hem? You can repair a hem easily.

• First, remove only broken or loose stitches; secure thread ends.
• Pin hem back in place.
• Use matching thread.
• Restitch the open sections, beginning and ending at a seam, if possible. (Stitch from hem side, not the garment side.)
• Remove pins and press.

Remove a Hem Crease

When you let out a hem, check to see that the original hem fold has not left a line or crease. If it has, try one of the following:

• Sponge crease with a solution of equal parts of white vinegar and water; press. You may test this on a small area.
• Press with an aluminum foil "sandwich." Place on your ironing board in this order: aluminum foil, hem, aluminum foil; press with a hot, dry iron.
• Use a spot remover on the crease; conceal it with a line of top stitching, decorative stitching, or trim.

Shorten a Hem

• Mark new length by having someone measure from floor.
• Mark a line to cut away excess fabric.
• Press new hem; grade seams turned up in hem.
• Finish hem edge to prevent raveling.
• Pin in place; then hand stitch.

Fuse a Hem

With new heat-sensitive fusible webs (such as stitch witchery), pressing replaces hand and machine stitching. These work well on a variety of fabrics -- but not all. Test on a scrap of material to see how it will look and feel.

• Press hem, easing fullness, if needed.
• Finish raw edge, if needed.
• Place narrow strip of web just below edge.
• Press, following package directions.

Buttons

There are many colors, sizes, shapes, and weights of buttons, and they are made of different materials. Some people like to collect unusual buttons. Keep a container of extra buttons you can use to replace ones that are lost from your clothes.

Types of Buttons

• Ball
• Shank
• Two-Hole
• Four-Hole

Button Location

Your Sewing Machine

You probably have been anxious to learn to use the sewing machine. This is an expensive piece of equipment, so you must learn to care for the machine as you learn to use it. There are many brands and models of machines. Learn to control your machine and make it work for you. Get someone to help you learn to use your sewing machine when you first start sewing.

Parts of a Sewing Machine

Learn the parts of a sewing machine. Study the drawing , and find these parts on your machine:

1. Power switch -- turns the machine (sometimes light) on and off.
2. Presser foot -- used to hold your fabric in place as you sew.
3. Presser foot lifter -- used to raise and lower the presser foot.
4. Throat plate -- a metal plate on the base of the machine (under presser foot) that contains openings for feed dogs and the needle.
5. Feed dogs -- teeth that go up and down with a forward motion to move your fabric as you sew. They hold fabric tightly against the presser foot as stitches are formed.
6. Needle -- moves up and down through the fabric to form stitches. It is best to change it at the beginning of each new project.
7. Thread take-up -- a lever that moves up and down with the needle, taking up thread slack with each stitch. Leave in the highest position when you stop sewing to prevent thread pull out.
8. Upper tension regulator -- a dial or disk that controls the tightness (tension) of the upper thread.
9. Thread guides -- hold the thread as it moves from thread source to needle. The number of guides vary among different machines.
10. Spool pin -- a vertical or horizontal rod that holds the spool(s) of thread.
11. Bobbin winder -- a rod and/or chamber that holds the bobbin in place for winding on thread.
12. Balance wheel -- makes a rotation for each stitch. You can use it for moving the needle up and down without the motor. This is especially helpful in precision areas such as corners.
13. Stitch length regulator -- regulates the length of the stitches. Use 10 to 12 stitches per inch for general seams and 6 to 8 stitches per inch for basting.
14. Stitch width regulator -- determines how wide a zigzag stitch will be.
15. Bobbin/bobbin case -- the case holds the bobbin and the bobbin holds the lower thread. Often they are found in a door at the lower front of the machine but are sometimes found under the front sliding section of the throat plate.
16. Foot control -- controls how fast or slow the machine sews. It's like the gas pedal of an automobile. Many can convert to knee controls.

When you can recognize these parts and have become familiar with their uses, you are ready to run the machine. Practice at first without threading the machine. Learn to start and run the machine slowly and evenly. Stop and turn the balance wheel with your right hand until the needle is raised as high as it will go. Do this every time you stop.

Use a piece of lined paper and continue to practice without thread. Practice guiding the paper straight. To pivot at corners, leave needle in paper, raise presser foot, turn the paper, lower the presser foot, and continue to sew.

Practice Using Your Machine

Learn to do the following with the use of your owner's manual or instruction book:

1. Learn to set up your machine, plug it in, and turn it on.
2. Find the hand wheel and learn how to raise and lower the needle.
3. Learn how to raise and lower presser foot.
4. Learn how to change the presser foot.
5. Point out the feed dogs and observe what they do as the needle goes up and down.
6. Identify what the throat plate is and how to open and close it.
7. Identify the zipper foot and how to attach it.
8. Learn how to take the bobbin in and out of the bobbin case.
9. Learn to adjust stitch length.
10. Learn how to stitch a seam and how to backstitch.
    1. insert needle into fabric or paper
    2. lower presser foot
    3. begin stitching
    4. learn to check stitches
11. Practice changing stitch pattern.
12. Learn how to change stitch length.
13. Learn how to change stitch width for zigzag stitch.
14. Practice changing needle position.
15. Practice winding the bobbin.
16. Learn to thread the machine.
17. Learn to adjust upper tension.
18. Find seam guides on throat plate and tell what they represent.
19. Remove thread from machine (top and bottom) and practice different stitches.
    1. straight lines
    2. inside corner
    3. outside corner
    4. inside curves
    5. outside curves
20. Practice removing and replacing the needle.

Continue to practice sewing on scraps of fabric. Fasten threads by reverse stitching at ends. Leave long thread pulled through toes of presser foot and to the back of the needle each time you stop and remove fabric. Don't forget to raise the needle to its highest position each time you stop. This prevents the needle from becoming unthreaded.

Most machines have markings to the right and often left of the needle to help you guide your fabric straight. If your machine does not have these marks, place a strip of tape to the right of the needle, placing tape edge 5/8 of an inch from needle hole. This is the width of most seams.

Practice sewing many times, on paper or fabric squares, until stitching is straight and even. With practice, it becomes easy and fun to sew!

Using A Serger

More and more sewers are becoming owners of this fast and exciting sewing invention. A serger, in regard to the sewing machine, is often compared with the microwave to the oven. It does many things, and does many things fast, but doesn't take the place of the basic machine. A serger uses three, four, or five threads instead of the two threads used by a regular sewing machine. Because of the extra threads, the serger looks more complicated, but you will be delighted how easy it is to operate. Give it a try. In no time, you'll make sensational serged projects.

Parts of a Serger

Learn the parts of a serger. Study the owner's manual and compare to the drawing to locate these parts, and find these parts on your machine:

1. Thread guide pole -- a rod that raises for operation and lowers for storage; it guides the thread from the spool to the needles and loopers.
2. Spool rods -- holds the spools, cones, or tubes of thread.
3. Tensions -- two loopers and usually two needles; this is the dial or disk that tightens or loosens the threads.
4. Flywheel -- rotates for each stitch. It usually turns in the opposite direction from the regular sewing machine.
5. Suction cups -- anchors the serger onto the table or flat form to prevent sliding at high rates of operating speed.
6. Loopers -- instead of a bobbin, sergers have two loopers that work together -- similar to knitting needles.
   1. The lower looper uses the far right thread. It does not stitch through the fabric, but rather passes under the fabric and interlocks with the upper looper among the needle threads. The stitches are, therefore, secured by the needle threads.
   2. The upper looper uses the inside right thread (on many machines). It also does not stitch through the fabric, but passes over the fabric, interlocks with the lower looper, and is secured by the needle threads at the time the stitches are formed.
7. Knives -- a two-part cutting process that trims the seam as it is stitched.
8. Presser foot -- controls the amount of pressure applied to the fabric.
9. Needles -- one of two stitching tools that provides the threads that are passed through the fabric to catch and secure the looper threads and form the stitch.
10. Pressure regulator -- a dial that adjusts the amount of pressure on the presser foot.
11. Stitch former -- a metal prong attached to the throat plate or presser foot on which the stitches are made.
12. Feed dogs -- two sets of metal teeth that feed the fabric under the pressure foot.
13. Throat plate -- A metal plate that covers the area under the presser foot.

Other parts of the serger include the following:

Cone adapter -- a tool that aids in fastening a cone-shaped spool of thread securely
Differential feed -- enables you to set the feed dogs at different speeds purposely to alter the movement of the fabric. It prevents stretching and can be set to make gathers.
Stitch-length regulator -- A dial, lever, or screw that adjusts the length of the stitches.
Stitch-width regulator -- A dial, lever, or screw that adjusts the width of the stitches

How Sergers Differ from Conventional Machines

Although there are many ways to use a serger, they cannot do everything. For example, topstitching and buttonholes cannot be done with a serger, and you may not wish to insert a zipper with a serger. Other ways sergers differ from conventional machines include the following:

Sergers are faster. They stitch 1,300 to 1,700 stitches per minute, while a conventional machine sews 900 to 1,000 per minute.

Sergers have a longer presser foot and feed dogs that hold fabrics firmly and evenly. Fabrics will not shift and pucker.

Sergers will not jam if sewing without fabric. They have two to five spools of thread, one for each needle and/or looper.

Sergers do not have bobbins; instead, they have loopers.

Sergers have two sets of knives that trim the seam allowance before the seam is finished.

Sergers use a knitting process to form stitches.

Getting To Know Your Serger

Pressing Pointers

Pressing Is Important

Pressing well is as important as stitching well. An article not pressed well will surely look "homemade." Good pressing equipment is as important as good sewing machine and shears and pins. You may start with a few basic pieces. There are some pieces you can make yourself. The pieces you need depend on the kind and amount of sewing you do.

Ironing board -- This needs a smooth, clean cover. The board should be lightly padded. A piece of plywood with a light pad and clean muslin cover can be a good substitute.

Iron -- An iron that can be used dry or with steam is preferable. Clean the sole plate or bottom of the iron as often as needed.

Press cloth -- Many fabrics need this protection from the iron so they will not burn or become shiny. A piece of clean muslin or old sheet may be used as well as a clean diaper or cotton handkerchief. Launder these frequently.

Dowel rod -- Use this to press open seams of tie belts or other tubes of fabric before you turn them.

Water container -- You may want to keep a clean plastic detergent bottle by your ironing board. Use it to fill the iron and to dampen your press cloth for some fabrics. Use distilled water if the water is not soft.

Pressing ham -- Press darts and other curved sections of your garment on this.

Seam roll -- Prevents marks on the outside of garments when seams are pressed open. It is useful for pressing sleeves.

Needle board -- Allows napped fabrics, such as corduroy or velveteen, to be pressed without matting them. A substitute can be a fluffy towel pinned tightly over your ironing board. A stiff brush can raise the nap sometimes when it has been flattened.

Press mitt -- This fits over the end of the ironing board. It allows you to press some hard-to-reach areas.

Paper strips -- Slide strips of heavy paper underneath seam edges, hems, or darts as you press some fabrics. This prevents shiny seams or press marks. You can cut these strips from a paper grocery bag.

Clapper/beater/pounding/block -- You may flatten seams, hems, or edges by getting the area steamy and hitting with this. Forcing the steam out quickly flattens the fabrics when needed. A brick wrapped in flannel can be a substitute.

Point presser -- Use to press sharp, pointed collars and other areas. This has a clapper as part of it.

Pressing Tips

Press but do not iron as you sew! Pressing means to lift and lower the iron. Ironing means gliding across the fabric.

• Unplug steam iron when you fill it with water.
• Set iron on heel stand when not using.
• Test iron temperature on a scrap of fabric.
• Press with the grain of the fabric.
• Press on the wrong side whenever possible.
• Avoid pressing directly on the zipper -- some zippers will melt!
• Do not press over pins -- this scratches the iron and also leaves a mark on many fabrics.
• Do not press over basting. This may leave a mark on your fabric.
• Do not press over a stain or soil -- this makes it (stain) harder to remove later.
• Do not overpress. Too hot an iron, used too many times, or pressing a fabric until it is dry will result in a tired look! It may also leave a shine on synthetics.
• Unplug iron when you have finished using it.
  

Press a Seam

Press a seam before it is crossed with another seam or a hem. Generally, seams are pressed open unless the pattern indicates otherwise.

1. Press the two edges together as stitched. This helps flatten the seam and works the stitching into the fabric. Press with the point of an iron. Applying too much pressure can cause seam exposure on the outer side of the garment.
2. Press seam open.

Press a Dart

Press darts from the wide end to point.

1. Press the dart flat as stitched -- not beyond the tip.
2. Press over ham, seam roll, or other curved surface to shape and mold dart and area beyond point.
3. Bustline darts are usually pressed down. Neckline and waistline darts are usually pressed toward the center.

Choosing Design, Color, Fabric, Pattern

Design

Every design is made up of lines. Lines are made by seams, skirt and sleeve lengths, collars, pockets, belts, yokes, and buttonholes. Lines are also made by decorative features, such as tucks, pleats, and special stitching. The use of two or more colors or textures gives an effect of lines. Fabric design, such as stripes and plaids, is made up of lines.

The outside lines form the silhouette or outline of a garment. Good silhouette lines are related to the shape of the body. No part of the body should seem out of proportion to other parts. These are the four basic clothing silhouettes:

• Hourglass
• Inverted triangle
• Triangle
• Rectangle

Fashion silhouettes can create a more pleasing body shape. They can counter certain body imbalances and create better balance and proportion.

Study your own figure/build and choose lines to help you look the way you'd like to look. Would you like to look taller and more slender? Then choose these:

• Designs or fabrics with vertical lines, because they carry the eye up and down.
• Outfits that are all one color, because this gives the effect of a long, unbroken line.
• Slim lines in ties, pants, skirts. Would you like to look shorter and broader? Then choose these:
  • Designs or fabrics with horizontal lines.
  • Contrasting belts or jackets.
  • Full-cut pants, skirts.

Color

Most preteens and teens can wear many different colors, but usually two or three colors do "something special" for you. One way to decide is to drape fabric of different colors around your neck. Look into a well-lighted mirror and watch the results. If possible, check this in natural light.

Your choice of color can do more than any other thing to make your outfit becoming to you. A color is a good choice if:

• It brings out the best in your skin.
• It is a pleasing contrast to your eyes and hair.
• It flatters your figure/build.
• It gives you a lift or happy feeling.

Textures, Fibers, Fabrics

A fiber is the beginning of all fabrics. It is a fine, hair-like strand twisted with other fibers to form a yarn. The yarns are then woven into fabric. Natural fibers are those found in nature. The four main ones are cotton, flax (linen), wool, and silk. Each has its own characteristics. No one fiber is perfect. Some characteristics are good; others are not.

Man-made or synthetic fibers are products of science and technology. They number several hundred, and new fibers are constantly being produced. It is impossible to remember the performance characteristics of each synthetic fiber. The synthetic fibers have been grouped, by law, into generic classes or families. Each of these families has its own pattern of behavior in wear and care. New families are added as they are developed.

Blends are a group of fabrics that strive to combine the best characteristics of natural and man-made fibers. Many fabrics used in home sewing are a blend of polyester and cotton. No single fiber or blend can meet all needs.

Fabric Construction

Fabric may be constructed by three basics methods: knitting, weaving, and the interlocking of fibers by felting or bonding. Lacemaking and netting are two less frequently used methods of producing cloth.

Knitted Fabrics

Knitted fabrics are made from one continuous thread. Knitting consists of rows of interlocking loops done by hand or machine. Knit fabrics are comfortable and wrinkle-resistant, but they snag. They give or stretch as you wear them. They must be stretched as you sew them so they keep this "give."

Woven Fabrics

There are several weaves of fabric. The plain weave is the most basic of all weaves, with one weft yarn going over and under one warp yarn. Many fabrics are produced in the plain weave.

Nonwoven Fabrics

These type fabrics are formed when heat, moisture, and pressure are applied to fibers, forcing them to interlock. Sometimes chemicals are used to maintain this process. Many interfacings, fleece, and felt are examples of this process.

Fabric Finishes

A fabric finish is a treatment that changes fabric behavior and appearance. The finish may be temporary or permanent.

Regular or basic finishes (such as napping, brushing, shearing, or calendaring) make fabric suitable to sell. Functional or special finishes contribute a special feature to the fabric. Permanent press, stain resistance, and water repellency are functional finishes.

Remember the following points about finishes when selecting fabrics:

• Finishes may be applied for beauty or service.
• Finishes may be durable or nondurable.
• Each finish means added cost.
• Proper care prolongs finish life.

Permanent Care Labeling

Permanent care labeling went into effect in 1972. A label giving directions for care must be permanently attached in a designated place to almost all ready-to-wear garments.

For home sewing fabrics, care instructions are printed on coded labels that correspond to the code number on the bolt end. Nine labels have been developed for this use. When a salesperson gives you a label, sew it into the garment you make so you and others will always know how to care for it. In most stores, you have to ask for the label.

Fabric Buying Tips

When it comes to fabric, the beginner usually picks on the basis of "I like it; I'll buy it!" The expert, like you are going to be, relies on more knowledge. A wise fabric choice will make your project a success, while a poor choice of fabric can cause you headaches from start to finish as you sew! Bolt end will provide such information as fiber content, fabric width, cost, and care instructions.

Remember these points:

• Small prints actually hide some stitching mistakes.
• Firmly woven fabrics are easier to work with than are loose weaves.
• Medium-weight fabrics are easier to sew than are flimsy or bulky ones.
• Machine washable fabrics are best for most projects -- look at care instructions on bolt.
• Study suggested fabrics on the pattern envelope.
• Avoid plaids, stripes, and large checks when you are inexperienced -- they take more time.
• When you do choose a plaid or stripe, get a pattern with simple lines.
• Select a fabric you like. This will make your sewing more interesting.
• Choose a fabric with colors becoming to you.
• Large printed fabrics are best with patterns that have few seams.
• Solid colored fabrics are good for patterns with definite lines and many seams.
• Choose your pattern before buying fabric so you can check on the back of the pattern envelope for the amount of fabric required for your size and the width fabric you should buy.

When you buy your fabric, jot down the fiber content so you can see how you enjoy wearing it. Keep a record of the cost so you may compare it with the price of ready-to-wear items.

Check the lengthwise or crosswise threads of fabric. Make certain the fabric is straight or on-grain before the fabric is cut from the bolt. On-grain means the lengthwise and crosswise threads of the fabric cross at right angles.

Off-grain means the threads in a fabric slant or curve across each other rather than cross at right angles.

Preshrink Fabric

The first thing you should do to the fabric you are going to sew is put it in the washer. Take your new fabric and launder it according to the care instructions and the way you plan to treat your finished garment. This takes care of any shrinkage that might occur. Of great importance to you, the home sewer, is the fact that many fabrics will stitch better and with fewer skipped stitches if they are laundered before sewing.

Some fabrics are not washable, and you should follow label instructions for their care. Wool may be preshrunk by various methods, but not in the washer! Some other dry-cleanable fabrics need no preshrinking before using them.

Straighten Fabric

Before you cut a garment, you should straighten the ends of the fabric if they are not even. You can do this one of two ways:

1. Pull a crosswise thread near the end and cut along the pulled line.
2. Clip through selvage and tear across the width. You will have to press out the ruffles caused by tearing.

Off-Grain Fabric

After you straighten the fabric as illustrated, some will not line up square at the ends of the fabric. Pull until you can line the folded fabric even with the side and end of a table. You are trying to pull the crooked threads straight. Some fabrics have a finish that does not allow the fabric to be straightened in this manner, and these fabrics will never line up squarely at the ends and selvages. This will result in a slightly off-grain garment.

Finding the Best Notions

Notions are all those items essential to making your garments. Some of these can enhance or detract from your garment, so choose them carefully.

Buttons should harmonize with texture and color of fabric, style of garment, and your figure build. Small buttons look good on small people; tall, larger persons can use larger buttons. The fewer buttons you use, the larger they may be in size than when you use many. Use large, heavy buttons only on heavy fabrics. Use lightweight buttons on lightweight fabrics. Plain, flat buttons are good for waistbands of pants or skirts. Look at buttons on ready-to-wear garments and choose similar buttons to make your items look professional. A regular shirt button on a shirt will look great, but a decorative looking button may cheapen its looks. You may cover buttons with fabric to match an outfit, but these may make the garment look homemade rather than professional. It's usually best to get the size button recommended on the pattern, or very close to it. Some buttons, such as wooden and leather ones, do not look good after laundering.

The zipper should match your fabric as well as possible. Wet it thoroughly and lay it out to dry, so it will not shrink and look puckered after you put it in your garment.

Thread should appear to match fabric. Select a shade slightly darker than the fabric.

Seam tape can be used on some hems. Wet it well while on the card, then lay it out to dry to prevent shrinkage later.

Some hook and eye variations work better at the neckline (smaller versions), and some work better for waistline closures.

Snaps are fasteners consisting of the prong half and the socket half.

Other notions may include elastic, bias tape, or trims. Suggested notions will be listed on the back of the pattern envelope.

Pattern Size and Type

If you want the garments you sew to fit properly, you must have the correct pattern size, and that depends on your body measurements and your figure/build type.

Measure your body. Accurate measurements are vital. Have someone help you. Take the measurements over the undergarments you normally wear. Update this information as you grow.

Find your figure type. Your figure type is based on body proportions and height. Check the back of pattern catalogs to select the type you are most like.

Select your size. Your measurements and figure type lead you to your pattern size. Your ready-to-wear size is not necessarily the exact same as your pattern size.

Females: Tie a string around your waist; where it settles is your natural waistline. (Young girls may have to bend sideways to find it.)

Bust: Measure around fullest part.
High bust: Measure around widest part of back, under the arms, and above fullest part of neckline.
Waist: Measure around natural waistline.
Hips: Measure around fullest part, about 7 inches from waist. A second measure could be 9 inches from waist.
Back waist length: Measure from prominent bone at back neck base down to natural waistline.
Height: Measure without shoes, against a wall.

Chest: Measure around fullest part.
Waist: Measure around waist along string.
Hips: Measure around fullest part, about 6 inches below waist for boys, 7 inches for teenaged boys, and 8 inches for adult men.
Inseam: Measure inside leg to desired pants length.
Height: Measure without shoes, against wall.

Other measurements may be needed for males and females so they can alter certain pattern styles.

Girls -- Girl's patterns are designed for the girl who has not yet begun to mature.

Size	S	M		L
	7	8	10	12	14
Breast	26	27	28 ½	30	32
Waist	23	23 ½	24 ½	25 ½	26 ½
Hip	27	28	30	32	3
Back Waist Length	11 ½	12	12 ¾	13 ½	14 ¼
Approx. Height	50	52	56	58 ½	61

Boys/Teen Boys -- These patterns are for boys who have not finished growing or attained full height.

Size	7	8	10	12	14	16	18
Chest	26	27	28	30	32	33 ½	35
Waist	23	24	25	26	27	28	29
Hip	27	28	29 ½	31	32 ½	34	35 ½
Neckband	11 ¾	12	12 ½	13	13 ½	14	14 ½
Height	48	50	54	58	61	64	66
Sleeve	22 3/8	23 ¼	25	26 ¾	29	30	31

Young Junior/Teen -- This size range is designed for the developing preteen and teen figures, about 5'1" to 5'3" without shoes.

Size	5/6	7/8	9/10	11/12	13/14	15/16
Bust	28	29	30 ½	32	33 ½	35
Waist	22	23	24	25	26	27
Hip	31	32	33 ½	35	36 ½	38
Back Waist Length	13 ½	14	14 ½	15	15 3/8	15 ¾

Misses -- Misses' patterns are designed for a well-proportioned and developed figure about 5'5" to 5'8" without shoes.

Size	XS		S		M		L
	6	8	10	12	14	16	18
Bust	30 ½	31 ½	32 ½	34	36	38	40
Waist	23	24	25	26 ½	28	30	32
Hip	32 ½	33 ½	34 ½	36	38	40	42
Back Waist Length	15 ½	15 ¾	16	16 ¼	16 ½	16 ¾	17

Using Your Pattern

Check the view you plan to make. Select the pattern pieces for the view you are making, and return the other pieces to the envelope.

Study your guide sheet. Find the diagrams that show how to place a pattern on fabric for cutting. Circle the one you plan to follow.

Your guide sheet has instructions on how to use your pattern and guide sheet. These are only suggestions, and you may make changes according to the fabric you are using, your skills, and your leader or other persons helping you.

Pattern Layout

Place your fabric and pattern on a large, hard, smooth surface. After your fabric has been preshrunk and straightened, fold it with right sides together. The exception to this is when you are more experienced and use fabric that requires matching, then you fold right sides to the outside.

Lay pattern pieces on fabric following the layout you circled on guide sheet. Place all pieces before pinning them.

Napped fabrics, those with a definite up and down, should be laid out with all the pieces in one direction. Corduroy has an obvious nap you can see and feel. Double knits and gabardine should have pattern pieces laid in one direction also, even though you cannot see a definite nap. Wool also should have the pattern laid out as for napped fabric.

Pattern pieces to be cut on the fold should be placed with the line of pattern, even with the fabric fold, and pinned. On pieces not placed on the fold, notice the marking that indicates straight of grain. Use a ruler or yardstick to measure, and be sure both ends of marking are the same distance from selvage.

Pattern pieces should remain smooth as you pin. Place pins at right angles to the cutting edge where they are not on the cutting line; pick up only a small amount of fabric.

Cutting

Use your good cutting shears. Do not use pinking shears, because it is difficult to be accurate. Use long, even strokes as you cut. Do not lift the fabric from the table while you cut; keep it flat on the table.

Notches on the edges of a pattern show you how the pieces fit together. Cut a little notch away from the pattern instead of toward it. When two notches are together, cut as a double one. Leave the pattern pinned to the fabric until you are ready to use the pieces.

Transfer pattern symbols by using one of the marking tools suggested in this manual.

Learning Pattern Symbols

Staystitching

The purpose of staystitching is to prevent stretching of fabric in handling and construction. Staystitching is a line of machine stitching (12 to 15 stitches per inch) ½ inch from the cut edge.

Stitch with matching thread through a single thickness of fabric. You need not reverse stitch to fasten. You may need to loosen your machine tension while sewing through just one thickness so your fabric will not pucker.

The direction of the stitching is important. To prevent stretching, stitch in the direction shown by the arrows in the drawing.

The stitching should not show after you do further construction. You may omit staystitching on edges that are straight or nearly straight.

Interfacing

Interfacing is a layer of fabric or construction material you place between the garment fabric and facing for body and shaping. Interfacing helps create better-looking, longer-lasting garments. It shapes, stabilizes, supports, gives body, reinforces, and prevents stretching in detail areas. Interfacing also gives definition to a detail area, cushions seams, and softens edges. Without interfacing, clothes become limp after cleaning and wearing.

The pattern will give you guidelines and the pattern piece to use. Generally, detail areas -- collars, cuffs, pockets, necklines, bands, and opening edges, such as button/buttonhole areas -- need extra shaping and support.

Choosing Interfacing

Interfacing must be similar to the weight of your outer fabric, not heavier. Fusible interfacing should be slightly lighter than outer fabric. Interfacing must do the following:

• have care instructions similar to your outer fabric.
• be compatible with the sewing guide instructions.
• suit the need of the area to be interfaced, stiffened, shaped, or supported.

To help you select interfacing, drape it over your hand with the outer fabric to see if it is too crisp or too soft.

Types of Interfacing

Two major types of interfacing are based on the way they are applied. These are fusibles and sew-ins. Woven interfacing has grain. Follow the pattern layout for cutting.

Nonwoven interfacing may or may not have grain. Those without grain (check manufacturer's instructions) may be laid out in any direction.

Fusible interfacings are available in woven, nonwoven, knit, and weft or warp insertion; sew-ins are available in woven or nonwoven.

Knits (fusible only) are made of nylon tricot. They are stable in the lengthwise direction and have considerable crosswise stretch.

Weft or warp insertions (fusible only) are made by combination knitting and woven construction. They provide stability, stretch, and drape all in one.

Specialty interfacing is another major category of interfacings available as tapes, fleeces, strips, and bands.

Methods

Fusible -- Trim ½ inch (1.3 cm) from fusible interfacing seam allowance. Place adhesive side of interfacing on wrong side of the garment section. Fuse with a steam iron and a press cloth, following manufacturer's direction.

Sew-in or standard -- Trim narrow, outside corners of interfacing diagonally near the seam line to prevent bulky, knobby corners. Pin standard interfacing to wrong side of garment section, and stitch ½ inch (1.3 cm) from edges. Trim it close to stitching.

Placement

Check manufacturer's recommendations for placement of a fusible interfacing. It may be applied to facing areas rather than garment. Sew-ins are usually applied to underneath garment side rather than to facing.

Preparing for Use

Nearly all interfacings, even fusibles, should be preshrunk before using. Wet thoroughly in lukewarm (not hot) water. Do not wring or twist, but lay flat to dry.

Caution! Test fusibles on a scrap of fabric to see the effect before you apply. Some interfacings are not suited to certain fabrics -- the only way to be sure is to test.

Darts

Darts help shape the fabric to you. Taper darts to a smooth, puckerless point. Fold dart on center line. Pin together on wrong side. Stitch on marking from wide part, tapering to nothing at the point. Tie threads at dart point. Cut thread ends ½ to 1 inch from the knot.

Another type of dart, found in some garments without a waistline, is wider at the center and tapers to a point at both ends. You stitch this dart from the center toward each point. Overlap stitching about 1 inch in the center of the dart.

The general rules for direction to press darts are as follows:

• horizontal darts -- press fold of dart down
• vertical darts -- press fold of dart toward center of garment.

Seams

Your fabric type determines whether seam allowances will need a finish and which method will be required; but don't worry - it can be easy and fast to do!

For most knits and a few firmly woven fabrics that do not ravel, a seam finish is usually not needed. Most other woven fabrics will need a seam finish to keep edges from fraying.

These are some of the seams and seam finishes you may use. There are other possibilities.

• Pinked -- You can pink seam edges when the fabric frays very little. Be sure you cut only along the edge, leaving most of the seam. Be careful and do not snip the wrong place! Do this only after you are sure the garment fits.
• Pinked and stitched -- Pink and stitch close to each seam edge on fabrics that need a little extra protection. You may need to loosen tension as you sew on this single thickness of fabric.
• Turned and stitched -- For lightweight fabric, turn under 1/8 inch, and stitch close to edge.
• Zigzag -- For any ravelly fabrics, particularly heavyweight versions, zigzag the edge. Practice on a scrap to find a good zigzag setting that will not pucker edges.
• Straight stitched -- For knits and other fabrics that may curl, such as swimwear fabrics, jerseys, or stretch terry, stitch about ¼ inch from edge.
• Double stitched -- Make a second row of stitching about 1/8 inch from seamline. Trim close to stitching. This is a good, easy finish for sheer fabric. On some fabrics, the second stitch line can be a zigzag.
• Selvage -- Selvages may be left on pieces that can be cut on the straight line. Snip the selvage in a few places so it will not pucker. This is a nice durable finish on any fabric.
• Welt -- Press seam to one side. Trim underseam to ¼ inch. Topstitch ¼ inch from the seamline, catching in the untrimmed seam allowance. This is good for heavy fabrics where a flat finish is desirable.
• French seam -- Place wrong sides of fabric together and stitch ¼ inch from edge. Trim 1/8 inch. Press seam flat and fold right sides together and crease. Stitch 3/16 inch from edge. This encases raw edges and is good for undergarments and sheer fabrics.
• Flat fell -- Place seam with wrong sides together and stitch a 5/8-inch seam. Press both seam edges in one direction. Trim under seam close to stitching. Turn under edge of top seam allowance. Topstitch close to edge. This durable, tailored finish is great for shirts, some blouses, some robes, and other garments.

Facings

Facings need not be frustrating! Here are some tricks that make them simple to do and make them look nice.

Grade to reduce thickness in the garment. Trim facing allowance to 1/8 inch and garment seam allowance to ¼ inch. Trim corners closer so they will turn well.

Clip or notch curves so they will be smooth, or simply cut closer to remove excess fabric from curves. Clip outward curves. Notch inward curves to reduce bulk.

Understitch to keep facing from rolling out and showing. Do this after grading, trimming, and clipping to reduce bulk. Open out facing and turn seam allowances toward facing. Stitch on facing, close to seam, through all thicknesses. Tack facings on the inside to seams or darts.

Collars

Collars are focal points and should look well-made. Follow your pattern guide sheet for construction regarding stitching, trimming, pressing, and interfacing. These additional tips may help you.

1. Keep the shape true. You may mark seamlines so you can stitch in exactly the right place.
2. Stitch collar to prevent undercollar from showing. You may trim the undercollar a scant 1/8 inch along outside edges (not neck edge). Pin it to upper collar with outer edges even and stitch, easing upper collar to under collar. This is called bubbling a collar!
3. Sharp corners. Take one or two stitches diagonally across corners to make them easier to turn. Trim corners diagonally.
4. Smooth corners. Clip or notch curves to eliminate bulk. Grade seam allowance. Another method is simply to trim close to stitching of curved area.
5. Hide undercollar. Understitch the seam at the outer edge. Understitching should be on undercollar close to seam; catch the graded seam allowance.

Zippers

Zippers need not be as threatening as they sometimes seem. Zippers come in different weights, lengths, and colors and may have metal or synthetic coils. Choose the color and weight suitable for your fabric.

Choose the zipper application suited to the zipper location and type of garment.

• Lapped: This is the most satisfactory method for most zipper openings. It covers the zipper well when properly done. This may be used at center back and is always used for a side opening. It should be about 3/8 inch to ½ inch wide. It is also called placket.
• Centered or slot: Though this does not cover the zipper as well as the lapped application does, it may sometimes be used for a center back or center front opening. Never use it at a side opening. It should be about ¼ inch wide on each side.
• Trouser: Boys and girls may choose this application for front of pants. Width of lap varies according to pattern ( also called fly zipper).
• Invisible: A special type of zipper is available for limited use. Robes and other lounging garment may utilize this zipper. Since it is used very little in ready-to-wear, it may tend to make other garments look homemade. You may use the directions that come with the zipper or consult other references for its insertion. Some pattern guide sheets also give fairly detailed instructions.

Have trouble topstitching straight? Use masking tape or other tape as a guide for a straight topstitch line.

Sleeves

Sleeves can be easy - believe it or not! They just take a little know-how.

Set-In Sleeves

A set-in sleeve should have a smooth cap with no puckers or tucked places. Distribute ease so there is none for about 1 inch at tip of cap.

Make one or two ease lines by machine on or within the seamline. You will probably develop your own preference about the number of ease lines and their placements after you have had experience setting in sleeves. Pull the ease lines slightly, and then roll seamline over fingers as you pin the sleeve in the garment. Stitch with sleeve up and garment next to feeddog. A second line of stitching ¼ inch inside the first can be used to reinforce underarm between notches, or it can be used around the entire sleeve seam. Trim seam underarm or all around.

Shortcut Set-In Sleeves

Do this on the flat (before underarm seam is stitched) for sleeves that have a moderate amount of cap ease, such as those in shirts, some blouses, and casual clothes. Stitch with sleeve side up, on seamline, and again 1/8 inch away. Trim close to stitching. Press seam toward sleeve. Stitch garment side and sleeve in one continuous seam.

Hems

Hems should be as inconspicuous as possible and not detract from outside appearances.

Skirt Hem

Mark the hemline of skirts. Put on the garment with the shoes you normally will wear with it. Have someone use a hem marker or yardstick and put a row of pins where the button fold of the hem will come. Stand still while your hem is being marked.

Examine marked line to see if it is even. If not, measure again and move the pins to form an even line.

Fold hem back along the marked line, and pin. Hand baste or pin near the fold. Press lightly on fold, not pressing on basting pins.

Mark hem width and then trim to an even depth. The weight of fabric and amount of flare determine the hem width.

Grade seams from hem fold and raw edge.

Reduce fullness in flared skirts. Baste stitch by machine about ¼ inch from the edge; begin and end at each seam line. Pull bobbin thread to ease hem and make it fit flat against skirt.

Shrink out fullness in hem. Place brown paper between hem and outer fabric.

Finish hem edge according to fabric and type of garment. Proceed with a finish and hand stitching.

Trouser Hem

To hem uncuffed trousers, you may follow this procedure:

Measure desired length from inseam and/or waistband seam. Mark with chalk or other marking tool.

Draw a diagonal line (line 1) across the bottom of the pants leg on both sides. Pants may be ½ inch longer in back than front. Line 1 will be your fold line for the new hem.

Measure 2 ½ to 3 inches down, and draw a line parallel with the first. This will be your cutting line.

Mark the second leg from the first one rather than measuring twice (unless you have one leg shorter than the other). This saves time and is usually more accurate.

Cut off excess fabric below line 2.

Fold hem and press. If hem seems too narrow to fit back into trouser leg, steam and stretch the top of hem to make it fit.

Add hem finish, and hand stitch.

Hem Finishes

Turned Under and Stitched (Clean Finished)

Use for light- to medium-weight fabrics. Press under ¼ inch of hem edge and then machine stitch about 1/8 inch from edge. This is a durable, widely used finish.

Hem Tape

Heavy, ravelly fabrics should not be turned under at the edge. You may use hem tape. Place tape to lie half on and half off hem edge. Machine stitch close to edge of tape. Don't forget to shrink the tape before you do this!

Hemming Stitches

Hong Kong -- This is a nice hem or seam finish for ravelly fabrics of various weights and heavy fabrics. Use a 1 ¼-inch bias strip of a lining or other lightweight fabric. Stitch to right side of hem edge, using a ¼-inch seam, then trim seam to 1/8 inch. Fold bias strip around hem edge and stitch in the well of the seam. You may trim excess lining under hem edge.

Topstitched -- This quick-method hem is acceptable for use on some hems. Press hem to wrong side, easing in any fullness. From right side, stitch near edge and again ¼ inch away. You can use this even on curved hems. You may use this type for wider hems, except for those that are curved.

Use your fine needle and single thread. The part of the stitch that catches the outside of the garment should be very small and about ½ inch apart. Do not pull stitches tight, or a puckered line will show. Hide knot under hem or at a side seam as you start; fasten end of thread with a few over-and-over stitches on hem side.

Care of Your Clothes

When you were younger, someone at home kept your clothes clean and pressed for you. Now you can do much of this yourself! Here are a few suggestions.

1. After each wearing, hang up clothes that are not to be laundered. Use a hanger.
2. Sew on buttons and repair rips or torn places.
3. Clean and polish shoes regularly.
4. Launder socks and underclothes after each wear, and most other garments, too.
5. Fold clean socks, underclothes, etc. and arrange neatly in drawers. Try to have a special place for each clothing item and accessory.
6. Fold sweaters and some other knit garments rather than placing on hangers.
7. Remove spots and stains as soon as they get on clothes. The longer stains stay, the harder they are to remove.
8. Out-of-season clothes that may still fit next year should not clutter your closet. Be sure they are clean, and store in plastic bags, boxes, or drawers.

Your Wardrobe

If you feel frustrated with your closet and your clothes, perhaps it's time to examine your wearables and your "closet cases!"

A wardrobe inventory will help you organize your clothes into outfits for different occasions and to decide what new items you need.

As you decide what to add, be sure the new garments complement the clothes you already have. A smart planner has the right clothes for every activity and event. Each time you dress, your clothes should go together and be comfortable, becoming, and appropriate for the time, place, and occasion.

Keep your wardrobe up-to-date by checking your clothes and accessories at least twice a year. Use the form below as your guide; change the headings as needed for your situation. Use other paper to do your actual inventory.

Wardrobe Inventory Let your inventory be a guide for spending your clothing allowance. A few suggestions include the following: Have more plain clothes than figured or plaid. Coordinate colors. Mix and match. Add variety with accessories. Make or remodel. Plan around one or two basic colors.
Number of garments	Good condition and wearable	To be removed or repaired	Need to add
Coats
Jackets
Suits
Pants
Belts
Shirts
Sweaters
Rainwear
Nightwear
Swimwear
Footwear
Add other garments and accessories

Careful planning can extend your wardrobe and help you get greater use out of each garment. If you change and replace a few things at a time, your clothes will always be attractive and interesting.

Model Your Garment

Just by wearing your clothes, you are modeling. You are always on display, whether on the street, at home, school, or play, or at parties. You learn your posture and your walk are early in life, but you can improve these and enhance your appearance and the way your clothes look on you. You can also gain poise in the process.

Poise is the ability to be bigger than oneself, to forget self-consciousness. Poise can make you master a situation even when things go against you. Poise is balance. Try balancing others' interests with your own, talking about the things in which they are interested. First, of course, you need to be sure of yourself. It helps to feel you look your best -- neat and suitably dressed.

Posture can help distribute your body weight so the figure looks well-proportioned. Look in a full-length mirror. Are you holding your head high, with chin parallel to the floor? Chest raised when you take a deep breath? Knees slightly flexed or relaxed to give you a smooth look when you stand and walk? Feet pointing straight ahead so your knees and toes just graze each other when you walk?

Walk with confidence and pride in your appearance. The art of walking is the foundation for good modeling. Practice walking toward a full-length mirror and see what you look like to others. Have a friend check your appearance from front to back. Once learned, a graceful walk becomes a habit. It becomes part of you and not an on-stage skill.

Sit with the back of your hips against the back of the chair. Center your head above your chest and hips. Lean forward from the hips, not the shoulder. To stand or sit, place one foot slightly in front of the other.

Model on stage as though you believe your outfit is the world's finest. Listen to the commentator for your cue to enter. Walk on stage briskly and pause for a moment as soon as you are in full view of the audience. Let them see you smiling, but dignified. Model for every section of the audience. Show the front, back, and sides of the outfit. Keep moving -- not fast, not slow, but naturally. Keep your eyes in contact with some of the audience most of the time. Listen for your cue to leave; pause, then exit.

Other Extension publications in the 4-H Clothing Series include these:

4-H Clothing Project Level I, Publication 1299
4-H Clothing Project Level II, Publication 1300
4-H Clothing Project Level III, Publication 1301
4-H Clothing Selection Manual, Publication 1303
4-H Leaders Guide Project, Publication 1297

Sew Easy: Hems, Publication 1444
You Be The Judge, Information Sheet 1477

Publication 1302
Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. Ronald A. Brown, Director

Copyright 2001 by Mississippi State University. All rights reserved.

This document may be copied and distributed for nonprofit educational purposes provided that credit is given to the Mississippi State University Extension Service.