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| Wet Bulb vs. Relative Humidity |
||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Relative Humidity |
Wet
Bulb Readings |
|||
| 99 |
100 |
101 |
102 |
|
| 45 |
80.5 |
81.3 |
82.2 |
83.0 |
| 50 |
82.5 |
83.3 |
84.2 |
85.0 |
| 55 |
84.5 |
85.3 |
86.2 |
87.0 |
| 60 |
86.5 |
87.3 |
88.2 |
89.0 |
| 65 |
88.0 |
89.0 |
90.0 |
91.0 |
| 70 |
89.7 |
90.7 |
91.7 |
92.7 |
An excellent way to determine if proper humidity is maintained is to candle the eggs. The normal size of the air cell after 7, 14, and 18 days of incubation is shown. As incubation progresses, the air cell of the egg becomes larger because moisture is lost from the egg. You can make necessary humidity adjustments as a result of the candling inspection.
Rarely is the humidity too high in a still-air incubator. The water pan should cover at least one-half of the surface area of a still-air incubator. At hatching time, place another pan of water or a wet sponge in the incubator to increase the humidity by increasing the exposed water surface area. Chicks need to be saturated before they can hatch properly, but do not drown them. High humidity will produce a late hatch; low humidity will produce an early hatch. Low humidity will also cause the chick to stick in the shell and die at hatching time.
Proper ventilation is vital. During embryonic development, oxygen enters the egg through pores in the shell, and carbon dioxide escapes in the same manner. As the chicks begin to hatch, they must receive an increasing supply of fresh air. As the embryos grow, gradually open the air openings of the incubator to increase the air flow. Be sure to avoid reducing the humidity during the hatching period. Provide ventilation openings both above and below the eggs for proper air exchange. Never place more than one layer of eggs in a still-air incubator.
If the electric power fails, the eggs will fare best if left alone to conserve the heat and humidity within the incubator. If the incubator is the forced-air type, open the incubator immediately and let fresh air enter. Maintain the room temperature at 75 °F. or more.
Turn the eggs at least two or three times daily during the first 18 days of incubation. Turning keeps the embryo from sticking to the shell membranes when left in one position too long. DO NOT turn eggs during the last three days before hatching. The embryos are moving into hatching position and do not need to be turned.
An excellent method to tell if all eggs have been turned is to mark an "X" on one side of the shell and an "O" on the opposite side. You can always tell if the eggs have been turned by noting which side is up. Write the marks with a pencil so harmful chemicals do not enter the eggs. When turning, be sure your hands are clean and free of greasy or dusty substances. During the first week in incubation, turn eggs carefully because the developing embryos have delicate blood vessels that may be ruptured if jarred or shaken.
Mark eggs incubated on different days with the date you placed them in the incubator. This prevents eggs from being overlooked and left in the incubator after they should have hatched. The eggs should be set and maintained vertically with the large end up or horizontally with the large end slightly elevated. This will let the embryo stay in the proper position for hatching.
Chicken eggs require 21 days to hatch, but the incubation periods for the eggs of other species of poultry vary. The approximate periods of incubation required for various species of poultry and game birds are as follows:
| Days |
|
|---|---|
| Chicken |
21 |
| Turkey |
28 |
| Duck |
28 |
| Muscovy Duck |
33-35 |
| Goose |
29-31 |
| Guinea |
26-28 |
| Pigeon |
16-18 |
| Ring-neck Pheasant |
23-24 |
| Bobwhite Quail |
23 |
| Japanese Quail |
17-18 |
| Chukar Partridge |
22-23 |
| Peafowl |
28 |
Don't disturb the eggs during the three days before hatching. Place adequate water in the incubator and make necessary adjustments before closing the incubator on the 18th day. Don't open the incubator until all chicks have hatched. Opening the incubator allows moisture to escape and makes it more difficult for the chicks to hatch. All the chicks should be out of their shells by the end of the 21st day unless you did not maintain proper incubation conditions. Chicks hatched after the 22nd day are not healthy and vigorous. After the chicks have hatched and fluffed up, remove them from the incubator and place them under a brooder with feed and water. For brooding information, see Mississippi State University Extension Service Publication 268, "The Home Flock."
When the hatch is completed, disconnect the incubator and remove all chicks, shells, and unhatched eggs. Wash the interior of the incubator with a warm detergent solution. If the incubator is to be used immediately, rinse it with a disinfectant solution. After the incubator has dried thoroughly, store it for later use.
You can buy small incubators, suitable for use in the home, from stores that sell farm equipment. You can build an egg incubator at home with a little work and small expense. This publication contains plans for two still-air incubators.
The first incubator is constructed from a styrofoam ice chest. It is inexpensive, and because it is insulated, it is inexpensive to operate. It can be damaged easily. You can observe the eggs and chicks through a window in the lid. This incubator will hold about 40 to 45 eggs.
The second incubator is more expensive but is more permanent. It is constructed of plywood and glass and will accommodate up to 100 large eggs. Both incubators are heated by a commercially available heating cable. You can replace the heating cable with two or three ordinary light bulbs. Get a list of organizations that sell incubator supplies and equipment from your county agent or state poultryman.
You'll need the following equipment and supplies to construct this incubator.
Get all equipment and supplies before starting construction. Carefully read and understand the instructions. Expect to spend about two hours building the incubator and four hours testing it.
Begin construction on the platform for the eggs. Cut the welded wire or hardware cloth so it is 6 inches longer and 6 inches wider than the inside bottom of the ice chest. Cut a 3-inch square from each corner and bend the projecting pieces at right angles to form legs for the platform. Remove any rough edges and cover the cut edges with tape. Install the cake pan and the platform in the bottom of the chest (Step 1).
Then install the heating element and micro-switch assembly. Protect the styrofoam sides from the heating element by placing masking tape or similar material around the interior of the chest. Place one strip of tape 2½ inches from the top. Place one strip 1 inch above the platform and another strip midway between the top and bottom strips.
Position the micro-switch assembly on one of the end walls so the center hole is about 5 inches below the top of the chest. With a pencil or other sharp pointed tool, make three holes in the chest for the temperature control bolt and two mounting bolts. Mount the switch by inserting the mounting bolt, add the washers, and tighten the nuts until the unit is firmly attached (Step 2). Insert the heating cable plug and the pilot light into the switch assembly before plugging in the lead cord. Check the unit to see if the pilot light glows and the heating cable warms up when you activate the switch. Both should be off when you turn off the switch. After checking the unit, remove the lead cord from the electrical outlet.
Fasten the midpoint of the cable to the top strip of tape at the opposite end of the chest. Using tape, fasten the remainder of the cable to the top and bottom strips of tape alternately while forming serpentine loops (Step 3). The cable does not need to be fastened to the middle strip of tape. Do not allow the cable loops to touch each other.
You may install a window in the lid of the chest so you can see the eggs and chicks as they hatch. Center the piece of glass on the top of the lid and trace its outline with a marker. Remove the glass and draw a smaller rectangle inside the first with all sides parallel and ¾ inch inside the traced glass rectangle. With a sharp knife cleanly cut out the smaller rectangle and discard it. Then carefully cut around the outline of the glass on top of the lid to a depth of only ¼ inch. Do not cut through the top.
On the cut edge made when you removed the rectangle, mark a line ¼ inch from the top of the lid. With a sharp knife or razor cut along the line until it meets with the cut made earlier. The strip should lift out easily to form a recessed ridge around the rectangular hole (Step 4). Place the glass in the recessed area and secure it with tape.
Proper ventilation is provided by sixteen ¼ inch holes in the sides of the chest. Make the holes with a pencil or other sharp instrument. On each of the large sides of the chest, make a row of four holes 2 inches from the bottom and another row of four holes located 3 inches from the top. The holes in each row should be 4 inches apart.
Test the incubator by placing a shallow layer of warm water (100 °F.) in the pan. Place the thermometer on the wire platform, put the lid on the chest, and plug in the lead cord. Turn the temperature control bolt until the pilot light goes on. Frequently readjust the control bolt until the desired temperature is reached. The pilot light and heating cable should shut off. Allow the unit to operate several hours before placing the eggs in it. This allows time to see how well the unit maintains a constant temperature.
This incubator is more expensive and will take longer to construct than the styrofoam incubator but is more durable. It is built of ½" exterior or marine grade plywood and glass and will accommodate up to 100 large eggs. Both incubators are heated by a commercially available glass-covered heating element. For the plywood incubator, it should provide 160 watts of heat. Slightly less heat is required in the styrofoam incubator.
Building plans for this incubator are shown.
Bill of Materials
1 piece of ½"
× 4" × 6" A-C Exterior Plywood
5 pieces 3/8" × ¾" × 8' pine
1 piece ¾" × 1½" × 13' pine
1 piece ¾" × 3¼" × 4' pine
1 piece ½" × ¾" × 8' pine
1 piece ½" × 18" × 27" rigid insulation board
1 piece 18" × 27" heavy duty aluminum foil
1 piece ½" × 30" semi-rigid plastic pipe
4 pieces 10" × 20" single strength window glass
4 pieces 10" × 14" single strength window glass
2 1½" round semi-rigid plastic pipe
4 pieces 10" × 20" single strength window glass
4 pieces 10" × 14" single strength window glass
2 1½" round wooden drawer pulls
2 metal drawer pulls (cup type)
2 2" hooks with eyes
1 piece 8" felt weatherstripping ¼" × ½"
1 piece 20" × 27" ¼" hardware cloth
2 vent covers -- sheet metal
1 incubator electrification kit composed of wafer thermostat with duplex
outlet, pilot light, and service cord; and 160-watt flexible glass-covered
heating element
1 attachment plug
2' No. 18-2 flexible rubber covered service cord
1 duplex outlet for surface mounting
10 small sized porcelain knobs for mounting heating element
1 pair of 4" × 1" flat hinges
1 water pan -- minimum 360 sq. in.
1 piece 1/8" × 16½' steel rod
1 piece 3/16" × 8' steel rod
Assorted nails and screws
Waterproof wood glue
Eggs do not hatch for reasons that may or may not be the fault of the person caring for the eggs. Below are a few common reasons for incubation failures.
The main purposes in coloring embryos are to provide a practical method of identifying chicks from different groups of eggs and so you can watch their movements after they leave the nest. In wildlife management studies, where identification and observation of ducks are difficult, identification and observation are made easy by coloring the embryos with bright dyes.
Coloring chick embryos provides the practice necessary to become skilled in the coloring technique while acquainting you with the tools and supplies students, researchers, and professional people use.
1 large beaker (1000 ml) or pan
2 small beaker (250 ml) or water glass
1 hypodermic syringe
1 No. 20 gauge hypodermic needle
1 No. 3 dental drill or similar drill device
1 ounce bottle of tincture of merthiolate
1 ounce of paraffin
1 small bottle of each dye used in coloring the chicks. Certified food
dyes of two to three percent concentration are available in most grocery
stores.
Fertile eggs incubated 16 or 17 days
Put water in the large beaker or pan and place it over heat. Loosen tops of bottles containing dye and place them upright in the small beaker or glass. The tops are loosened so the bottles of dye will not explode when heated. Put syringe, needles, and drill in same container with the bottles of dye. Add about an inch and a half of distilled water to the small container, and place in the larger container until the water in the larger container has boiled for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, pour the water out of the small container, and allow the contents to air dry as they cool.
At a spot about ½ inch from the small end of the egg, daub an area about 1 inch in diameter with merthiolate. Dip the tip of the dental drill in merthiolate. Rotate the drill between your the fingers while gently pressing the tip against the shell in the center of the daubed area. Rotate until you make a hole in the shell.
Assemble the syringe and needle. Be sure they do not become contaminated by contact with foreign objects. Dip the needle in the merthiolate, and withdraw ½ cc. (cubic centimeter) or .5 ml. (milliliter) of dye. Insert only the tip of the needle in the hole and through the shell membranes. To prevent overflow, gently and slowly inject the dye. Remove the needle, seal the hole with paraffin, and return the egg to the incubator. Clean the syringe and needle by flushing them with distilled water each time you use a different color dye.
You can mix dyes to produce colors other than those available at local stores. You can inject them into chicken, duck, goose, and other species of eggs.
You should set about three to four dozen fertile eggs 20 days before each date on which you are to display the hatching chicks. To assure chicks hatching at all hours on the day of the exhibit, set one-third of the day's hatch eight hours earlier and another one-third eight hours later than the normal setting time. A reasonable sequence of chicks should emerge from the eggs during the exhibit hours if there is reasonably good fertility and hatchability.
The chick embryo exhibit need display only the 1-, 2-, 3-, 4-, 5-day embryos, any one embryo from 6 to 10 days, any one embryo from 11 to 18 days, and any one embryo from 19 to 21 days. The abbreviated exhibit is preferred to the full 21-day exhibit because it requires fewer eggs, uses a smaller incubator, and shows the development of the chick embryo just as well as the 21-day exhibit.
For a 1- to 6-day exhibit of the embryonic development of living embryos, the incubation schedule should be as follows:
| CHICK EMBRYO EXHIBIT SCHEDULE |
||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| No.
of days* |
Length of the Show (Days) |
|||||
| One |
Two |
Three |
Four |
Five |
Six |
|
| Eggs to Set |
||||||
| 18 |
5 |
8 |
8 |
8 |
8 |
8 |
| 16 |
0 |
0 |
5 |
8 |
8 |
8 |
| 14 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
5 |
8 |
| 10 |
5 |
8 |
11 |
14 |
16 |
18 |
| 6 |
5 |
8 |
11 |
14 |
16 |
18 |
| 5 |
5 |
5 |
5 |
5 |
5 |
5 |
| 4 |
4 |
6 |
8 |
10 |
10 |
10 |
| 3 |
4 |
6 |
8 |
10 |
10 |
10 |
| 2 |
4 |
6 |
8 |
10 |
10 |
10 |
| 1 |
4 |
6 |
8 |
10 |
10 |
10 |
| 1st day of show |
4 |
4 |
4 |
4 |
4 |
4 |
| 2nd day of show |
-- |
4 |
4 |
4 |
4 |
4 |
| 3rd day of show |
-- |
-- |
4 |
4 |
4 |
4 |
| 4th day of show |
-- |
-- |
-- |
4 |
4 |
4 |
| 5th day of show |
-- |
-- |
-- |
-- |
4 |
4 |
Learn to open incubated chicken eggs so you can see the day-by-day growth of the living embryo as it develops within the egg. This is an interesting and exciting activity in which you can observe the fascinating growth and development of a chick embryo. After you learn to open incubated eggs, you can then enjoy the pleasure of showing someone else how to observe the developing embryo.
While preparing the embryos, you will use tools similar to those doctors use when they perform delicate operations, and you will learn the scientific names of parts of the embryo common to unborn babies, even human babies. You will use your fingers and your eyes to do a delicate task that would require great care of the most experienced doctors, laboratory technicians, and research people. With practice, you will soon open the eggs with ease. Each time you open a fertile egg, see the heart beating, and watch the tiny fetus exercising back and forth within the amniotic sac, you will marvel at the miracle of life.
| Equipment and Supplies |
|
|---|---|
| · Incubator |
· Magnifying glass |
| · Incubated eggs |
· Pine block pedestals (¾" × 2" × 2" with 1½ diameter holes) |
| · Forceps (tweezers) |
· Manicure scissors Paper towels or cloths |
| · Eye dropper |
|
Refer to the illustrations of the fresh egg and embryonic membranes. Locate the parts of the egg described in the following paragraphs by referring to the material in "Formation and Parts of the Egg."
Incubate four fertile eggs for 48 hours. Crack the shell at the large (air cell) end by tapping gently with the heavy end of the forceps. Remove a few flakes of shell with the forceps and then, using the manicure scissors, with a circular motion cut away the shell extending above the contents of the egg. As you cut away the shell, you remove the outer shell membrane with it. The inner shell membrane is the opaque (white) membrane lying across the fluid portion of the egg. You must remove this so you may clearly see the embryo.
Place a drop of water on the inner shell membrane. Now gently pick at the moistened portion until you grasp it by the forceps. Caution: do not rupture the blood vessels or the thin membrane of the allantoic sac.
Use a circular motion while removing the membrane. If a blood vessel breaks, repeat the procedure on another egg. If you uncover the membrane successfully, the contents of the egg are exposed. The yolk is covered with a mass of blood vessels, the vitelline circulation, and the tiny heart lies pulsating with life.
After you have removed the inner shell membrane, place the egg on a pedestal in the incubator. You must keep the eggs in the incubator except when you are preparing them for display or observation. After you place the egg on the pedestal, the embryo will soon come into position so you can see it easily through the window made by removing the shell. Use the magnifying glass to look closely at the beating heart and the first faint traces of the eye developing in the three-day embryo.
Exposed to room temperature, the heart will beat for several hours if you place the egg in an upright position. You can cover the opening of the egg with cellophane film. Under warm incubation temperatures the heart may pulsate for up to 15 hours or longer.
By breaking a fresh egg and an egg incubated for one day into dishes and then making windows in eggs incubated for two, three, four, five and more days, you can easily follow the sequence of growth and development of the chick embryo.
You can easily prepare a series of stages of avian embryo development. Such a series of embryos can provide a ready reference set for student use. Use specimens from two days to hatching for this purpose.
| Equipment and Supplies |
|
|---|---|
| · Alcohol, ethanol (70%) or isopropanol (70%) |
· Forceps |
| · Glycerin |
· Needles |
| · Formalin, 37% formaldehyde solution (not metal) |
· Fertile eggs, incubated for desired length of time |
| · Bottles or vials with plastic screw caps |
· Scissors |
Crack the shell of the egg at the broad end with a sharp knife or scalpel, and pick away the pieces until you make an opening about 1 inch in diameter. Remove the outer and inner shell membranes. The embryo in the blastoderm will be uppermost. Using fine-pointed scissors, cut out a circle of blastoderm about the size of a quarter, leaving the embryo at the center. With blunt forceps, pull the embryo and adherent extra-embryonic membranes away from the yolk and albumen. Remove all membranes and sever the umbilical stalk near the body wall. Rinse well under tap water. After washing clean, place the embryo into a bottle containing 10% formalin. The formalin solution is made of one part of the 37% formaldehyde solution and nine parts of water. This solution will preserve the specimen. After a week or so, pour off the formalin solution, rinse the specimen in tap water, drop 3 to 4 drops of glycerin onto it, and place it into 70% alcohol as a final preservation agent. The glycerine keeps the specimen softer and the skin translucent.
Dip the top of the container into melted wax to seal against evaporation of the alcohol. Label the containers with detailed information -- date, variety of embryo, name of person, preservative. Note: When dealing with embryos under five days of incubation, the following technique is helpful in harvesting the embryo. After the embryo is exposed from under the shell membranes, place about four drops of the formalin solution on the embryo. The solution coagulates the protein and makes it easier to harvest the embryo.
Chemical Embryology, J. Needham (1931). pp. 1-2021. MacMillan and Co., New York.
Why Some Eggs Do Not Hatch, A.L. Romanoff (1931). Cornell University Extension Bulletin 205, (Feb. 1931). pp. 1-17.
From the Egg to the Chick, A.L. Romanoff (1939). Cornell Rural School Leaflet, vol. 33, No. 1, (Sept. 1939). pp. 57-63.
"A Method of Color Marking Young Waterfowl," C.D. Evans (1951). Journal of Wildlife Management, vol. 15, pp. 101-103.
Embryology of the Chick, B.M. Patten (1952). pp. 1-228. The Blakiston Co., New York.
The Development of the Chick, F.R. Lillie (1919 or 1952). pp. 1-472 or 1-624. Henry Holt and Co., New York.
The Chick Embryo in Biological Research, (1952). New York Academy of Sciences, vol. 55 (2).
Biochemistry and Morphogenesis, J Needham (1942). pp. 1-785. MacMillan and Co., New York.
The Avian Embryo, A.L. Romanoff and A.J. Romanoff (1949). pp. 1-918. John Wiley and Sons, Inc., New York.
The Avian Physiology, P.D. Sturkie. Comstock Publishing Assoc., Ithaca, New York.
Fertility and Hatchability of Chicken and Turkey Eggs, edited by L.W. Taylor. John Wiley and Sons, Inc., New York.
An Introduction to Vertebrate Embryology, W. Shumway. John Wiley an Sons, Inc., New York.
Lillie's Development of the Chick, revised by H.L. Hamilton. Henry Holt Co., New York.
Some of these publications are in your local public, school, or college libraries.
Mississippi State University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, national origin, sex, age, disability, or veteran status.
Publication 1150
Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S.
Department of Agriculture.
Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914.
Ronald
A. Brown, Director