Poultry for Ages 14 to 19 (Senior 4-H Members)

Your Poultry Project may be in the production of eggs, broilers, or hatching eggs. Your parents and Extension agents will gladly assist you with your project.

Minimum requirements for the Senior Poultry Project are to do at least one of the following activities. You may do more.

• Brood and raise 50 or more chicks. Save the best pullets for your home flock. Manage home flock.
• Help your parents grow out a large flock of pullets for egg production.
• Help your parents with a large laying flock.
• Help your parents to grow out broilers.

Things You Should Learn

How to vaccinate for fowl pox

How to prevent feed waste

How to clean and disinfect a brooder house

Housing requirements

How to treat for lice and mites

About common poultry diseases

How to candle eggs

Pounds of feed to produce a dozen eggs

Pounds of feed to produce a broiler

Record keeping

Brooding Project

Breeds most commonly used for commercial egg production are the Leghorn type. Some of these are hybrids. For small flocks, the production-type Rhode Island Red and Sex-link are good to use.

The Leghorn-type breeds are similar in size, feed requirements, and egg production. This type of bird weighs 4 to 4½ pounds when fully grown. It takes about 4 pounds of feed to produce a dozen eggs with this type of bird. They lay white shelled eggs.

The Rhode Island Red and Sex-Link birds are heavier and take more feed. They lay brown shelled eggs. Except for the shell, brown and white eggs are alike if the hens are fed the same feed.

The Rhode Island Red and Sex-Link are ideal birds for a small 4-H project. These breeds are not as nervous as the Leghorn type. As you gain experience, you can switch to the Leghorn type and increase your flock size.

Meat production requires a chick that has been bred for fast growth and good feed use. A crossbreed is used in commercial broiler production. It grows fast, feathers rapidly, and efficiently converts or changes feed to meat. This chick is furnished by the person who contracts for broilers to be grown. These chicks come from hatcheries specializing in production of broiler chicks.

When you have decided on the type of project and breed to use, you must place an order for the chicks. Place your order well in advance of the date you want to start your project.

It requires 21 days for a baby chick to hatch from an egg after it has been placed in an incubator. Order baby chicks at least 2 months before you want them.

Housing

A fancy building is not necessary. An available building can be converted to a good poultry house.

The building must have 1 square foot of floor space per chick for the first 10 weeks. It should be dry and well-ventilated to give the proper amount of fresh air. Rat-proof the building to keep rats from wasting feed and killing baby chicks.

Equipment

Brooder. There are many types of brooders (heating units) that provide the necessary warmth for your chicks. The size of your project determines the type brooder needed.

For small flocks, an infrared bulb broods 75 to 100 chicks. Hang the bulb securely so it does not drop into the litter. To reduce the heat, raise the height of the bulb.

You may want to build a homemade brooder. Obtain plans from your county Extension agent. Ask him to show how an inexpensive homemade brooder can easily brood 100 chicks.

Feeders. Start chicks with chick feeders. Allow 1 inch of feeder space per chick.

Use broiler size feeders after chicks are 3 to 4 weeks old. Allow 3 inches of feeder space until they are 10 weeks of age.

Calculate feeder space by measuring one side of the feeder and multiplying by 2. For example, one 4-foot feeder measuring 48 inches on one side can be used to start 96 chicks.

You might want to use tube feeders. Use three tube feeders per 100 chicks.

Waterers. Start chicks with two small glass fountains per 100 chicks. When the chicks get older, provide two 1-gallon water fountains per 100 chicks. Change the waterers gradually. Remove one small sized fountain and replace with a gallon size. Follow this procedure until all small water fountains are replaced.

Preparation

Thoroughly clean and disinfect house and equipment. Do this 2 weeks before chicks arrive.

Sweep down the walls and ceiling to remove all dust and cobwebs. Use a water hose on the walls and ceiling to wash down dust and dirt. Use water to help clean the floor.

After the house is clean, use a good household disinfectant like Lysol to disinfect the house. A solution of 1 tablespoon of chlorine bleach in 1 gallon of water can be used to disinfect clean waterers and feeders.

When the house is dry, cover the floor with 3 to 5 inches of dry wood shavings or sawdust. Be sure the litter you use is dry.

Install and test the brooder or heating unit. Have the brooder in operation at least one day before the chicks arrive. This allows time for heating and drying out the house.

Place a brooder guard in a circle about 3 to 4 feet from the hover. If you use an infrared bulb, place the brooder guard in a circle with a 3- to 4-foot radius. A brooder guard is an 18-inch high barrier made of wire mesh or cardboard. Place newspapers on top of the litter inside the brooder guard; this prevents the chicks from eating the litter. You can remove this newspaper in 3 to 4 days.

Feeders should be placed around like spokes in a wheel. Place waterers in between the feeders and on a board to help keep them clean.

Fill the waterers with water before the chicks arrive. Fill the feeders and spread some feed on the newspapers. Some feed may be placed on egg flats or paper plates. When chicks start eating from the feeders, remove the egg flats or paper plates.

For the first few days check to see if the chicks are too warm or too cold. This is a critical time in the baby chick's life. Remove the brooder guard between 7 to 10 days.

Temperature and Ventilation

The temperature should be 90ºF 2½ inches from the top of the litter at the edge of the hover. Lower temperature 5 degrees each week until you reach 70 degrees.

Chicks will let you know when they are not comfortable. If cold, they gather close to the source of heat and cheep in a tremulous or shrill tone. If too hot, they will move away from the heat. When temperature is correct, they spread out evenly around the brooder.

Chick talk is the key to comfort. When contented, well-fed, supplied with proper heat, comfortable, and happy, chicks talk in a low-toned, contented "cheep."

Ventilation is very important. Do not close up your building tightly so that air cannot come in. Chicks need fresh air, but drafts must be avoided. Proper ventilation helps keep litter dry by removing excess moisture.

Watering

Water is the most important thing that you give your chicks. Chicks need about twice as much water by weight as feed. They cannot live long without water.

Wash waterers daily. Disinfect waterers at least once a week. A solution of 1 tablespoon of chlorine bleach to a gallon of water will do a good disinfecting job. Diseases may spread rapidly when waterers are dirty. Chicks will not drink enough water if it is dirty. Keep the water clean.

Feeding

Start your chicks off on a good starting feed. Feed the starting mash until each chick has consumed 2 pounds. If you start 100 chicks, use 200 pounds of starting feed. Then change to a growing mash. Feed the growing mash until the chicks are 10 weeks of age. This complete feed contains from 16 to 17 percent protein. Do not feed grain with this feed.

Vaccinating

Newly hatched chicks are commonly vaccinated for protection against Marek's disease at the hatchery. Vaccine must be injected under the skin by someone familiar with the procedure.

You should vaccinate your birds for fowl pox. This virus disease causes lower egg production and mortality (death). Many times it is transmitted by mosquitoes. All birds kept for egg production should be vaccinated. Vaccinate between the ages of 8 and 12 weeks. Ask your county agent for information on the proper way to vaccinate for fowl pox.

On large poultry farms, chickens are vaccinated for bronchitis and Newcastle. It is not recommended that you vaccinate for these diseases.

Coccidiosis, a protozoan disease (one-celled organism), affects the intestinal tract of chickens. The coccidia flourish in a damp, warm place. For this reason litter needs to stay dry. Coccidiosis usually occurs in birds 4 to 6 weeks of age. The larger poultry farmers use a coccidiostat in their feed to prevent an outbreak of coccidiosis.

Watch for bloody droppings, one of the first indications of cecal coccidiosis. Infected chicks will have ruffled, ragged looking feathers, will lack energy, and will go off feed. At the first sign of these symptoms, get drugs from your feed dealer and treat immediately.

Cannibalism (feather picking) is caused by several things. The most serious cause is not giving birds enough room. Another cause is letting your birds be without feed for a long period of time.

To stop feather picking, allow birds more room and debeak. This is done by removing half the top beak with an electric debeaker. Using green feed to keep them busy will help.

Daily Management

The following management practices should be carried out each day:

• Keep feeders filled only half full. Keep feeders level with the backs of the chickens.
• Check the operation of your brooder.
• Clean and fill the waterers twice each day. Check for wet spots around waterers.
• Check the temperature to be sure your chicks are not too hot or too cold.
• Stir the litter and remove wet spots.
• Open and close windows as needed to give good ventilation.
• Observe your chicks for any unusual condition.
• Remove sick birds.
• Keep a good set of records. Record forms are in the back of this manual.

Rearing Project

The rearing stage of chicks is from 8 to 10 weeks of age, until they start to lay at 18 to 22 weeks of age.

The rearing stage is an important period. Provide your pullets with the right kind and amount of feed to make certain they develop into strong, healthy hens.

If you start with straight run chicks, the cockerels (roosters) can be separated for sale or slaughter. Cockerels eat a lot of feed, so get rid of them.

There are two ways to raise your pullets -- in total confinement or ranging.

Confinement rearing is growing pullets in a house instead of on open range. Allow 3 square feet for each bird.

Feeder Space. Allow 4 to 5 inches of feeder space per bird. Three 8-foot feeders or four 5-foot feeders will take care of 100 pullets.

Waterers. Provide a 4-foot waterer for each 100 pullets.

Litter. Maintain litter as you would in a laying house, 4 to 5 inches.

Ventilation. Provide plenty of fresh air.

Feed. A pullet needs a complete feed containing about 16 percent protein. You can buy a complete feed that contains the 16 percent protein. Do not mix or offer grain with the complete pullet developer. The addition of grit is not necessary.

Disease Control. A good job of sanitation will prevent many diseases. Keep the pullets away from old hens. Don't allow visitors around your pullets. If pullets get sick, ask your county Extension agent for advice and assistance.

Control of Lice and Mites. Lice and mites are two external parasites that can give you trouble. Check your pullets regularly. If you find these parasites, ask your county Extension agent for advice on how to control them.

Daily Management

• Clean and fill the waterers.
• Don't fill feeders more than half full. Stir and level the feed. Keep feeders level with backs of chickens.
• Stir litter if needed. Remove any wet litter and replace with dry.
• Check the ventilation.
• Remove sick birds.
• Keep good records.

Laying Project

The laying project begins when you move your pullets to the laying house or you get the first eggs. To get the best out of your pullets, handle them properly.

Housing. The building you raised the pullets in can be used for a laying house, or you may use another building as a laying house.

The sides of the building must be open for hot weather. Cover opening with poultry netting. During the winter, cover the north, east, and west sides of the house. Plastic material can be used for this. The south side is left open for ventilation.

Nests. You need one nest for every four pullets. Nests must be at least 12x12x12 inches so that plenty of nesting material can be used. Wood shavings make excellent nesting material. Place nests in the house before the pullets start laying; if not, many will lay on the floor. Floor eggs get dirty, and many are broken.

Waterers.Provide one 4-foot waterer for every 100 birds. It may be an automatic waterer or one that you must keep filled with water.

Feeders. You need 5 inches of feeder space for each pullet or hen. Five 4-foot feeders or 6 hanging tube-type feeders provide adequate feeder space for 100 hens. A small feeder for oyster shell may aid in forming strong eggshells and maintaining egg production.

Feeding.The method recommended feeding hens is the complete-feed method. It uses a 16 percent protein diet as the only feed offered to the layers.

Grain-mash programs may be cheaper, but club members usually do not get the best production with this feeding method. They often feed too much grain. When the hens eat too much grain, they get fat, are slower in developing, and do not lay as well.

Lights.Hens must have the proper amount of light. They require 16 hours of light each day. During the winter this is very important. Determine the amount of daylight and then turn on the lights to provide the needed 16-hour day. For instance, if the sun rises at 6 a.m. and sets at 6 p.m., you have 12 hours of daylight. You would need the lights on for 4 additional hours. Use a 60-watt bulb for each 200 square feet of floor space. Be sure to supply exactly the same amount of light each day, or egg production will drop.

Parasite Control. Check your hens regularly for lice and mites. Check with your county Extension agent on the best method of control.

Culling.Culling is removing the nonlayers from the flock. This should be done on a regular basis. A nonlayer has a dull shriveled comb and a hard abdomen. The sick and crippled birds are culls and should be removed from the flock daily or as they appear. Information on proper culling can be obtained from your agent and Publication 358, "Culling Hens."

Care and Handling of Eggs.Eggs should be gathered three times daily. Gather in a wire basket or egg flats. Place in a cool place so that the temperature of the egg is reduced quickly.

When an egg is laid, its temperature is 106 to 107 degrees. An egg left in the nest will not cool when other hens get in the nest. High temperature and dry conditions will cause egg quality to break down. Store eggs at a temperature of 50 degrees and humidity of 75 percent.

Handle eggs carefully. Cracked eggs do not sell at a high price. Clean eggs soon after gathering. If you have a large number of eggs, you may have to wash some of them. Wash eggs in an egg detergent sanitizer. Keep water at 110 to 120 degrees, and do not leave eggs in water longer than 2½ minutes.

Pack eggs in clean, cool cartons with small end down. Keep cool at all times. High temperature lowers the quality of eggs.

Marketing eggs.Most club members with small flocks can sell their eggs locally. Many have regular egg routes. By doing this you can get top prices.

Market eggs daily. Do not hold eggs for a long period of time. This will lower the quality. If you have a larger flock, you can sell to a store or egg dealer.

Strive to sell the best product possible. If eggs are poor quality, a consumer may not buy them a second time. All eggs should be candled. Candling is the method used to see the contents of an egg. A candler is a device with a light inside and a hole that the light shines through. The egg is held at a 45-degree angle at the opening and turned. When the egg is turned before the light, the inside contents of the egg are put in motion so you can see any defects.

Daily Management

• Clean waterers each day.
• Fill feed trough one half full.
• Gather eggs three or four times daily.
• Keep light bulbs clean and see that hens get 6 hours of light daily.
• Ventilate the house in relation to the weather.
• Remove sick or unthrifty birds.
• Remember; confined hens are easier to manage. You will have fewer dirty eggs and a more uniform yolk color.

Records

Keep accurate daily records. Record sheets are provided in this book. Additional copies of the record sheets are available from your county Extension office. Ask for Monthly 4-H Poultry Record (MSU-ES Form 183) and Yearly 4-H Poultry Record (MSU-ES Form 184).

4-H Poultry Record

My name is _____________________________________________________________________________

My parents are Mr. and Mrs._____________________________________________________________

My address is __________________________________________________________________________

I was born___________ date _____________ month ___________ year. I am in the ____ grade.

This is my________ year in 4-H Club work. I live in ____________________________ County.

Answer as many of the following questions as you can (first-year member):

What breeds are used for egg production? ________________________________________________

What type brooders are used in your area? _______________________________________________

What are some of the advantages and disadvantages of these brooders?_____________________

______________________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________________

What is the temperature of the brooder when chicks are 3 weeks old? ______________________

What depth do I fill my feeders? ___________________________________________________

What diseases can we vaccinate for besides fowl pox? __________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

At what age does coccidiosis usually occur? ________ What is the proper height of feeders?____

How many pullets can be reared in a house 10 feet by 15 feet? ____________________________

How many nests are needed for 40 hens? ____________________________________________

What are good nesting materials? __________________________________________________

How many square feet of floor space do layers need? ___________________________________

How often should eggs be gathered? ________________________________________________

Answer as many of the following questions as you can (second-year member):

How much floor space is needed for the first eight weeks? _______________________________

How long does it take an egg to hatch? ______________________________________________

How many day-old chicks can eat from a 4-foot feeder? _________________________________

How often do you clean waterers? ______ What percent protein do you feed your chicks? _____

At what age do we vaccinate for fowl pox? ______ How many hours of light are needed? ______

What percent protein feed is used when corn is fed? _______ Why do you feed oyster shell? ____

What is meant by candling? _______________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

What two things cause the quality of the egg to be lowered? _____________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

Brooding Record

Date chicks started ____________ Number chicks started __________ Breed ____________

		Feed
Week	Mortality	Starter or Broiler	Grower	Feed Cost	Other Costs	Weekly Cost
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
6th
7th
8th
9th
10th
Total

Income from cockerels

Cost of chicks __________________

Cost of feed __________________

Cost of fuel __________________

Other costs __________________

Total Cost __________________

Less income from cockerels _____________________

Net cost to date ________________________________

Broiler Project Record

Sale of broilers _________________________

Total cost _________________________

Profit or loss _________________________

Feed conversion for broilers* _________________________

*Feed conversion is total pounds of feed divided by total weight of broilers.

________________________________ Date project started _________________________
(Name of Club Member)

________________________________ Number birds at 10 weeks ____________________
(Address or County)

Mortality(number of pullets that died)
10th week __________	18th week __________
11th week __________	19th week __________
12th week __________	20th week __________
13th week __________	21st week __________
14th week __________	22nd week __________
15th week __________	23rd week __________
16th week __________	24th week __________
17th week __________	25th week __________
	Total __________

Vaccination Record
Date	FowlPox	Bronchitis	New Castle	Cost

Total Cost of Vaccination ____________________

Total Cost______________________

Number of birds that died during growing period _________________________

Pounds feed per pullet for the growing period ___________________________

Brooding costs $ _______________________________

Pullet growing costs $ ___________________________

Total cost to date $ ___________________________

Monthly Laying Flock Record

Get MSU-ES Form 183 from your county Extension agent to keep in your laying house. The form provides space for daily egg record, feed records, and costs. Fill in the form below with the monthly totals from your hen house record.

Month	Eggs Produced	Egg Sales	Culls or Mortality	Feed		Other Costs	Sale of Cull Hens
				Pounds	Cost
Total

Total dozen eggs produced _____________ (Divide total eggs by 12.)

Hen-housed egg production _____________ (Divide number of hens started into total egg production.)

Feed per dozen eggs _____________ (Divide total dozen eggs into total pounds feed.)

Cost to start of lay ____________ (This should be available from your brooding and rearing records.)

Plus costs during laying year ____________

Equals total cost ____________

Total sales of eggs and hens ____________

Minus total cost ____________

Equals profit or loss for you ____________

Distributed by Dr. Tom Smith, Jr., Extension Poultry Specialist

Mississippi State University does not discriminate on grounds of race, color, religion, national origin, sex, age, or handicap.

Publication 743
Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. Ronald A. Brown, Director

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