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Hurricane-damaged Shade, Ornamental, and Fruit Trees

The type of care you give damaged trees depends on their age, the extent and type of damage, and the time required for surrounding soil to reach normal moisture levels.

A tree's age largely determines its ability to recover. A young, vigorous tree is more likely to survive than an older one; sometimes an older tree's deep roots help it withstand the force of a flood. In general, a damaged older tree is weakened more than a young tree receiving the same kind of damage. Types of damage to trees include fallen trees, broken and torn limbs, wounds, split branches, and exposed roots.

Fallen Trees

Plan ahead before deciding what to do with fallen trees. In general, reset only smaller trees since large trees are weakened and may fall again, perhaps damaging property. (In a tree that is uprooted, at least half or more of its roots are destroyed. Large trees simply do not recover.)

Decide what to do with tree stumps. If you are going to leave them, cut them off flush with the ground. If you plan to have them pulled up, leave 4 feet of stump. Removal is cheaper and easier if stumps can be pulled out rather than dug out. Also, stumps can be cut at ground level and a landscaper can grind the stump.

Broken and Torn Limbs

Limb damage affects the shape and general health of the tree. Prune the tree properly to avoid additional damage. Removing tree limbs is dangerous work. You may need to hire a professional licensed arborist.
  1. Cut off broken or torn limbs to avoid unnecessary bark stripping. Leave a smooth finish flush with the trunk or branch from which you prune.

  2. Paint the outer edges of the cut with wound dressing. Cover the entire exposed wood surface with a prepared tree paint or emulsifiable asphalt. Do not use ordinary household paint (could injure tender tissue and retard healing).

    Use Spar varnish on magnolia, ornamental cherry, peach, and plum trees.

  3. To remove large, heavy limbs, use three cuts to avoid ripping bark and wood.

    1. Make a cut on the underside of the limb, about 1 foot from the trunk or branch from which you are pruning. Cut about 1/3 through the limb.

    2. Make a second cut on the upper side of the limb, about 2 to 6 inches farther out on the limb than the first cut. Continue sawing until the branch splits off.

    3. Remove the remaining stub by making a single cut flush with the trunk or branch from which you are pruning. Treat cut with wood dressing.

Wounds

The amount of damage to the bark of larger shrubs and trees affects the plant's ability to recover, especially when there is more than one type of injury.
  1. Remove all jagged and protruding wood. Make smooth, clean cuts with a saw or chisel.

  2. If there are bark wounds, remove loose bark. To remove bark, make smooth, clean cuts to form a boat-shaped area pointed at both ends.

  3. Paint the edges and the exposed wood surfaces with a prepared tree paint or dressing.

Split Branches

If branches are split at the crotches, pull them back into place with a turn buckle and secure them with lag-threaded screw rods. Remove the limb if this is not feasible.
  1. Bore a hole through trunk or branch at the place above the split where screw rod is to be inserted. Make the hole 1/16 inch smaller in diameter than diameter of the screw rod.

  2. Insert screw rod until the point is nearly to the opposite side.

  3. Cut off protruding end and paint over it.

  4. If the split is long, insert as many screw rods as necessary, 12 to 18 inches apart. (Or use regular bolts with washers on each end. Countersink the bolt so the washers rest on the hardwood.)

Uprooted Trees

Uprooted trees require bracing for a long time after they have been straightened. With few exceptions, larger trees and shrubs weaken.

Before you reset a tree, cut, smooth, and paint all jagged and irregular root breaks. After resetting, water the tree well and keep it watered in dry periods. Do not remove guy wires or braces for at least 2 years. Prune a damaged tree just enough to balance root losses. Cut out broken, diseased, and malformed branches to give the tree a desirable shape. Fertilization may help induce good vigor for fall root growth. Use a tree/shrub fertilizer available at your local nursery. Follow label rates carefully. Survey the damage if large trees were uprooted by heavy winds. At least one-half and sometimes more of the root system may be eliminated. It may serve the homeowner's best interest to remove the tree and plant a new one in its place.

Weakened Trees

If the crown of the tree needs strengthening, use cables between the weakened branches.
  • Insert lab bolts from one-half to one-third of the way between the base and tip of the branches you want to brace.

  • Attach the ends of the cable to the bolts, and tighten the nuts to draw the cable taut. A block and tackle or turn buckle make the job easier.

  • Avoid using short lengths of cable low in the tree.

Exposed Roots

Cover exposed roots. Use nearby sand and silt deposits, if there are any. It is not essential to use regular soil to cover roots. Build the root cover to its level before the damage. Do not build it higher. A 3-inch deep mulch retards drying of exposed roots. Pine straw is an excellent mulch.

Continue Care

After repairing trees, continue to care for them.
  1. Remove silt and sand deposits. To prevent further damage to root systems, remove all deposits to the level of the soil before the damage.

  2. Check soil moisture. The variety and species of trees and the soil's natural ability to retain or expel excess moisture determine what actions are necessary to avoid losses caused by excess moisture.

  3. Mulching is needed to conserve moisture as the dry, fall months approach.

  4. Prune a damaged tree just enough to balance the loss of roots. Cut out broken, diseased, and malformed branches, and give the tree a desirable shape.

  5. Don't use excessive fertilizer because overdoses damage plants further. Follow label rates carefully.

Evergreens

Take care of evergreen injuries promptly. An antitranspirant, available commercially, helps cut down on water loss through leaf surfaces. Follow directions and label rates carefully.

Trees grow stronger and are more wind resistant if you plant large trees at least 40 feet apart; plant small trees at least 25 feet apart. Place them safe distances from buildings and electric wires. Removing or repairing damaged trees is dangerous work. In most cases, a professional arborist can assure you of safe removal or corrective treatment. Always insist on using a licensed arborist who is required by state law to be bonded and insured for liability and property damage. Arborists are in the Yellow Pages of your phone directory. If none are listed, contact the Division of Plant Industry for a listing of all licensed arborists in Mississippi. Most local nurseries can provide assistance in contractual services for shrubbery and lawns as well as tree care.

Standing Water

Dormant trees, shrubs, or perennials tolerate standing water for several days without sustained injury. When they are growing, however, plants can drown in standing water, because roots suffocate.

Silting

The greatest threat to ornamentals in hurricane season is flooding and the resulting silt.

Silting occurs when soil carried by rapidly moving water is dumped on flooded land. Silt deposits vary in depths of up to several inches. Trees and shrubs usually are not harmed by silt deposits. Iris, peonies, and chrysanthemums can be damaged or killed. Silt damage results in crown and root disorders on these plants. The degree of injury depends on how long water remains and the depth of silt deposited. To reduce silt injury to plants:

  1. Remove the silt from crowns of plants. If the plants are on well-drained soil, wash the silt away from the plants. On evergreens, a mild detergent helps remove silt from the foliage.
  2. Wait until the silt dries, then rake the excess soil away. A little silt is not harmful and can be raked into the grass.

Erosion

If too much soil has eroded, replace it with good topsoil around the base of plants. Depth should equal original soil depth. Mulch newly applied topsoil to prevent runoff.

Soil Deposits

If excess soil causes a change in grade and has been deposited around base of plants, remove excess soil to the level as close to the original grade as possible. Be careful not to rake or cut into the root system.

By Dr. Richard Mullenax, Extension Horticulture Department

Mississippi State University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, national origin, sex, age, disability, or veteran status.

Information Sheet 1355
Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. Ronald A. Brown, Director