Plant
Pathology Infobytes
February
2, 1998
Don't Let El Nino Put A Damper On Your Spring Gardening
Season
Rain,
rain, and more rain! If the southern version of El Nino
hangs around into the spring gardening season, home
vegetable production could be difficult in 1998.
Diseases,
and most other pests which attack vegetable crops, are more
difficult to control under rainy conditions, so gardeners
will likely have their hands full trying to take care of
early season disease problems such as seedling diseases, and
other wet weather disorders such as blights, leaf spots, and
wilts.
The
following tips should reduce the severity of vegetable
diseases under El Nino growing conditions. But, even if we
don't experience an unusually wet spring, these practices
are great ways to help prevent diseases in any season.
- Seed
rot and seedling disease are more common in wet springs.
Soil fungi, such as Rhizoctonia and Pythium, attack seed
after planting and cause seed rot and poor stands. Or,
these fungi attack young seedlings as they emerge,
causing root and stem rots. Green bean seeds and
seedlings are common victims, but most all types of
vegetable seeds and seedlings are susceptible to attack.
How do you prevent seed rot and seedling disease? If you
are an early season gardener, avoid placing seeds too
deep, or delay planting until soil has warmed.
- Another
way to obtain and maintain a healthy stand of vegetable
seedlings is to use the "raised row" planting approach.
Soils in raised rows are better drained, warmer, and
encourage faster seed germination, seedling emergence,
and young plants more resistant to seedling disease
infection. Raised row gardening can be an especially
valuable disease control technique if your garden area
isn't especially well-drained.
- Plant
seeds treated with a fungicide to further help reduce
seed, root and stem rots. Vegetable seeds are coated with
fungicides to control seed rot and seedling diseases.
Fungicide treated seeds are especially worthwhile in
circumstances where vegetables are to be planted in cool
or wet soils. Often seeds bought from dealers are already
treated - indicated by a reddish or green color - but ask
to be sure. The most commonly used materials are products
containing captan or thiram fungicides. Seeds not already
treated commercially can be coated with fungicide by the
gardener. Large seeded crops such as corn or beans can be
treated by placing seed and fungicide in a jar and gently
shaking or rotating the container until all seeds are
evenly coated. As little as 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoonful of
captan or thiram per pound of seed may be all that is
needed to accomplish this. Smaller seeds may be treated
right in the seed packet by shaking a small amount of
fungicide with the seed. Be sure to wash equipment and
hands after handling fungicide and treated seeds.
- If
nitrogen fertilizers are applied, avoid use over-use,
since excessive nitrogen can favor seedling diseases
caused by Rhizoctonia.
- Plant
at recommended seeding rates, since dense plantings stay
wet longer because of reduced air circulation and poor
sunlight penetration. This leads to bacterial and fungal
leaf spots and blights.
- After
a stand of healthy seedlings is up and growing, observe
the garden daily for evidence of leaf spot or other
disease symptoms, and begin a fungicide spray program at
the first sign of disease symptoms. Or, better still,
start your fungicide application program before diseases
are observed if weather conditions are favorable for
disease development. This can be a big step in preventing
a possible overnight buildup of diseases that reduce
yield and quality of garden vegetables.
Anthracnose,
rust, mildew - are these foreign words in your gardening
vocabulary? Look for coverage on how you can prevent these
and other garden disease problems in future articles. Our
aim is to help you produce a healthy crop of vegetable this
season, so feel free to give us a call at the County
Extension Office any time you have gardening questions.
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