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Tips to ward off winter's chill
The Coast Gardener Newspaper and Web Column - March 9, 2002

As I stepped off the plane Monday evening, I understood why the pilot said that conditions in the Gulfport/Biloxi area were quite blustery. Boy was it cold! Although the low temperature in Orlando dropped to 35 degrees one morning, I had enjoyed a stretch of really nice weather in central Florida.

The bark of this shrub has been damaged by cold temperatures. Azaleas, Pittosporums, Camellias and others can show this damage. The water in the branches freezes and the bark splits...causing branches to die later in the season.

I was amazed to learn how cold the temperatures fell on the Coast. Things were warm when I left over a week ago. Conditions continue to be chilly even as I write this column. A beautiful blanket of frost enveloped Coastal landscapes this morning.

As a result of this cold snap, it is likely that some freeze damage is inevitable for some plant material. Hopefully, those of you who loaded up on the wonderful selection of plants at the Garden & Patio Show were able to hold off on planting them or at least took the necessary precautions.

Although some damage is apparent, it is important not to worry yourself sick about the cold. Since we do live in plant hardiness zone 8b, minimum temperatures can bottom out between 10 and 20 degrees. The last freeze in our area usually occurs by the second week of March. That is not to say that we will not have another cold spell.

I decided to put together a few tips that will help you as you plan for Ole' Man Winter's next visit. I will begin the pointers with, perhaps, the most important thing to do immediately after the freeze.

• Avoid immediate pruning of cold-damaged plants. Assess the situation by examining your plants through the spring. Tender bedding plants show damage quickly, but trees and shrubs may take time to show it.
• Water your plants regularly. Roots that are cold are sluggish and will not uptake nutrients very well. Watering helps to insulate roots and keep them functioning properly.
• Keep about 3 inches of mulch around your plants. Gardeners should have mulched after the first freeze last fall. Again, mulch conserves moisture and insulates roots.
• Be careful when using light bulbs or heaters as a heat source. Fire hazards are real.
• Plastic, cloth, pots, or other materials can be used to cover plants. It is best for the material to reach the ground and not contact the foliage to keep heat loss to a minimum. Uncover immediately when temperatures reach the 40-degree mark.
• Move containerized plants into shelter gradually. Try a garage or shed before bringing them indoors. Roots of containerized plants are more susceptible to freezing than plants growing in the ground. Don't forget that they need water, too!
• Ornamental plants can be protected during a freeze by sprinkling the plants with water. Sprinkling for cold protection helps keep leaf surface temperatures near 32 degrees.
• Remove damaged plant parts after threat of freezing temperatures are over for good. This keeps diseases and insects from attacking your plants.
• The duration of the cold period for citrus is as important as how low the temperature falls. It usually takes 3 to 4 hours at 27 to 28 degrees to injure naval oranges. However, only 30 to 60 minutes at 29 degrees will injure small lemons. To prevent cold injury to citrus, a greenhouse, or sunroom is the best bet

I hope the above tips will help you as you assess the situation in your landscape. Remember, don't be too quick to grab those pruning shears! That plant you thought was beyond hope might surprise you.

These archived gardening columns were written by Chance McDavid, former Harrison County Extension Agent.