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Transplant trees and shrubs properly
The Coast Gardener Newspaper and Web Column - December 8, 2001

Fall is well underway and winter is fast approaching. Many people believe that gardening activities are on hold until spring. There are many gardening activities, however, that are best performed during this time of the year, especially along the Mississippi Gulf Coast. We are treated to virtually a year-round growing season. I love the cooler temperatures. The chill in the early morning air is refreshing while doing yard tasks.

One such task that is best performed now is transplanting trees and shrubs in the landscape. Many thousands of dollars can easily be invested into the landscape of a home or business. Unfortunately, some people fail to follow recommended planting practices that ultimately lead to disappointment. Improper transplanting techniques can turn an otherwise fine plant specimen into an undesirable addition to your landscape.

Transplanting trees and shrubs requires more than just digging a hole. As I discussed last week, proper drainage is essential for plants to grow. Besides good drainage, the planting hole itself should be prepared properly.

Prepare the planting hole three to five times wider than the diameter of the ball and burlap or container plant being transplanted. Dig the edges of the hole at a 45-degree angle. If digging the planting hole with a mechanical tree spade, cut groves in the sides and bottom of the hole. Glazed sides keep roots from penetrating the surrounding soil as the plant grows.

Ball and burlap plants should be planted in a hole no deeper than the height of the soil ball. Digging the hole deeper allows a plant to settle and can cause suffocation of the roots. Plants need to be transplanted at the same depth as they were originally grown at the nursery. The discoloration on the bark near ground level indicates the depth the plant was originally growing.

When placing the ball and burlap plant in the hole, lift it by the root ball and not the trunk. When filling the hole, be careful not to disturb the root ball. Add backfill up to two-thirds of the depth of the root ball and firm the soil. Settle the soil with water. Continue adding soil until hole is filled.

Remove the burlap from the top of the soil ball by rolling it down the side of the soil ball. Burlap left on top of the soil line will wick away soil moisture causing the root ball to dry out. Cut all strings that bind the burlap to the root ball. Regular burlap can be left in the hole to rot; however, synthetic material should be removed.

Sandy soils may require that a 4-inch berm (a ringed, raised area of soil) be placed around the planting hole. A berm helps to hold water and even protects the transplant from possible damage by a lawn mower or string trimmer. Be sure the berm is well beyond the edge of the root ball so water will be directed to the right place. If drainage is poor, a berm is not recommended because you do not want to direct any additional water to the hole.

Container-grown plants are handled in the same method as ball and burlap plants. Make the planting hole three to five times wider than the diameter of the soil ball but no deeper than its height. Spread the roots by gently "teasing" to break the circular root pattern. If the plant is "pot bound," separate the root system by making three vertical cuts through the root system. Also, cut the bottom of the root ball to remove "matted" roots.

Bare-root plants need holes that are wide enough to spread the roots. Still, the plants must not be planted any deeper than the original soil depth. To prevent settling of the plant, build a crown of soil for fibrous rooted plants. Roses are a good example of such plants. Leave the center of the bottom portion of the planting hole higher than the edges to allow the plant to rest firmly. This mound at the bottom of the hole prevents the plant from settling and helps to spread the roots in their natural position.

Preparing the proper hole when transplanting trees and shrubs is important to the survival of your favorite plants. Remember that transplanting requires a bit more than simply digging a hole. Ball and burlap, container and bare-root transplants benefit from proper hole preparation.

These archived gardening columns were written by Chance McDavid, former Harrison County Extension Agent.


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